Don’t Rush Your Rescue Dog

There’s nothing quite like the excitement of bringing home a new dog — especially a rescue dog who has finally found the loving family they deserve. But if your new furry arrival has come from a kennel environment, particularly abroad, they need something far more important than adventures and busy schedules:

✨ Time to decompress. ✨

The Decompression Phase (4–6 Weeks Minimum)

We humans want to do all the things right away — walks, visitors, dog park trips, training classes. But for a rescue dog, especially one who has traveled a long way, this period is a huge life change.

Their nervous system needs time to recalibrate after the stress they’ve experienced.

✅ Keep outings short and calm
✅ Allow lots of quiet observation time
✅ Home is the safe place — help them learn that slowly

For the first few weeks, think less “walks” and more:

🚪 Garden sniffing
👀 Watching the world safely
🛋️ Chilling with their new family

You’re building trust — not a schedule.

Sleep + Chewing = Emotional Regulation

One of the best things you can do right now?

🛏 Prioritise rest.
🦴 Offer healthy things to chew.

Chewing and rest promote calmness and basically tell your dog’s brain,
“You’re safe here.”

Try a cycle like:

• Short enrichment or training session
• Snuffle mat, lick mat, or a safe chew afterwards
• Encourage a nap

Foreign rescue dogs are often overstimulated by all the new sounds and sights — not truly tired. They may need help learning how to settle initially.

Toilet Training Troubles? Check For Giardia

If there’s a lot of pooping happening (everywhere!) — don’t panic. For dogs coming from kennel environments or a stressful journey, Giardia is extremely common.

💩 Take a stool sample to the vet
🧼 Double-clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner
⚠️ Remember: It’s highly contagious and can reinfect

A stressed gut = a stressed brain, so clearing up tummy issues will help behaviour dramatically.

In some cases, a 24-hour fast (with plenty of hydration), followed by a gentle/bland diet, can help — but always check with your vet first.

Restart Toilet Training — Like You Would A Younger Dog

Once any medical issues are addressed, go back to basics:

✅ Frequent garden trips (after sleep, play, meals)
✅ Mark and reward immediately
✅ Set them up for success from the start

And for now, track food intake until their digestion stabilises — consistent meals mean consistent results.

How Much Exercise Is Right?

You may have heard the 5 minutes per month of age guideline.
It’s not a rule — it’s a reminder.

New rescue puppies should not be walked for ages on their tiny developing joints. Short, positive exposure is the goal.


Save the big adventures for later once they’re confident and secure.

I love using 3-day walk cycles for balance:
1️⃣ Explore a little
2️⃣ Practice calm confidence-building activities
3️⃣ Rest and reset

Your relationship is the walk — not the mileage.

The Adolescent Phase Is Coming…

If your female pup isn’t spayed yet, be prepared for:

• Restlessness
• Nesting behaviour
• Possible indoor accidents

Many females come into season around 9–10 months but it can vary — keep an eye out for behavioural changes and speak to your vet about timing.

For male adolescent dogs behaviours spike when hormones set in around 6-9 months old and can continue until 12 months and even 18 months old for larger breeds.

Final Words: You’re Doing Great ❤️

Your rescue dog doesn’t need perfection — they need patience.

By slowing the pace, supporting their recovery, and listening to their needs, you’re helping them feel safe enough to blossom into the dog they were always meant to be.

Because the real magic happens when a rescue dog realises:

🫶 They are home.

……love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer and behaviourist.

And if you found this blog post helpful please check out my previous blog post here – Debunking the “Little Dog Syndrome” Myth

Can’t make an in person session consider checking out my upcoming zoom webinar topics and using this link to book Book Weekly Webinars Here👈

And if you would further help and live in the Plymouth or surrounding area please book in by filling in my training and behaviour questionnaire here New 1-2-1 Clients Start Here

Thanks . S

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Little Dog Syndrome- What Small Breeds Really Need

Small dogs need big personalities for you to “listen” to them.

If you’ve ever heard the phrase “little dog syndrome”, you might picture a tiny dog with big attitude—yapping, bossing other dogs around, maybe even snappy or reactive. It’s a phrase many people toss around with a wink. But as with many catchy sayings, the reality is far more nuanced than it seems.

What the phrase implies

The term suggests that small-breed dogs are inherently more problematic: more yappy, more aggressive, more spoiled. It frames size as the root cause of behaviour problems. But the truth: size alone doesn’t determine behaviour. What does matter is why behaviour issues arise — and how we support small dogs (and their owners) differently.

What the science reveals

  • Research shows that smaller dogs do have higher odds of owner-reported fearfulness and aggression than larger dogs — but size is just one of many factors. For example, one large-scale study found that smaller body size correlated with higher risk of fear and aggression, but the authors emphasised that this is a broad, population-level trend, not a destiny for any individual dog.
  • Another key piece: early life and maternal care matter a lot. Puppies whose dams were less stressed, who gave more consistent licking/nursing and contact, develop into calmer, more resilient adults.
  • Behaviour issues in small dogs are frequently driven by pain or medical issues (for example dental disease, joint problems, airway or spine issues) rather than “just being a small dog with attitude.” When pain is relieved, behaviour often improves.
  • Nutrition and training style matter too: diet can support behaviour improvement (though it isn’t a silver bullet) and training methods that rely on rewards, respect and clear communication outperform punitive methods — especially for smaller dogs.

So what’s really at play?

Here are the bigger drivers behind what gets labelled “small dog syndrome”:

  • Higher vigilance: Many small breeds were bred to alert or watch (rather than herd or guard). That means a lower threshold to respond to stimuli (doorbell, stranger, passer-by).
  • Owner handling biases: Small dogs are easier to pick up, more likely to be carried, less likely to be handled like larger dogs (walked as much, trained as much). This can reduce their confidence and increase fear.
  • Overlooking health issues: Because they’re small, pain or discomfort in the joints, spine, teeth or airway may be overlooked — and an irritable, anxious dog often looks like a behaviour problem.
  • Inadequate training/enrichment: Smaller dogs still need outlets for their breed-instincts, socialisation, movement and mental challenges — these get missed if we think “small = easy.”
  • Environment and management: Running into strangers, dogs or stimuli at high speed without a plan creates stress; small dogs are more vulnerable to feeling “trapped” (less body mass, fewer escape options) so reading early signals matters.

What you can do to advocate for your small dog

1. Read the body language early

Look for the subtle-before-the-problem: lip licks, head turn, freezing, shifting weight, crouching or making the body smaller. These aren’t “cute” — they’re stress signals. Intervene early: give space, create a barrier (your body, a bench), redirect to a positive behaviour (scatter a few treats, hand-target, escort to safe zone).

2. Check health/pain before punishing behaviour

Especially in small breeds, do a “vet audit” when you see a new or changed behaviour: dental examination (crowded jaws are common); joint check (patella, spine/neck, hips); airway/trachea or breathing issues; signs of neuropathic pain (especially in certain breeds). Pain-driven behaviour is teachable — but only after treating the cause.

3. Tailor training to small-dog size & needs

  • Use a well-fitted Y-front or front-clip harness instead of a tight collar (especially for toy or brachycephalic breeds)
  • Teach “station” (mat on the floor or low bench) so your small dog has a safe base
  • Practice “hand-target,” “middle” (dog between your legs), “scatter-sniff” breaks during walks
  • Use short sessions frequently (2–3 mins several times a day) to suit small body/attention spans
  • Build “consent handling” (dog comes to you for grooming/touch rather than you always picking it up) to build resilience and trust

4. Provide enrichment & mental outlets

Small breed owners often think “less space = less need.” But with little dogs especially, enrichment helps reduce reactivity and fear: puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, short high-value walks, nosework, training games, “Look at that” with new people/dogs at distance.

5. Change the narrative: dismissing “small dog = easy”

Educate your network: small dogs can do a lot — we just need to support them right. They deserve the same structured socialisation, and predictable training, and patience. The phrase “small dog syndrome” stops being an excuse and becomes a stepping-stone to doing better.

6. Create safe walks & encounters

Because small dogs are physically closer to obstacles, less body-mass to buffer stress, teach your clients / owners to anticipate:

  • Use visual scanning: what’s ahead? Could another dog/child move towards us quickly?
  • If yes: U-turn early or cross the road, give space.
  • If in doubt keep moving – lead reactivity is often an attempt to create space if we take on the role of manager we can always help the dog out and keep moving- knowing your dogs initial safe distance is important.
  • Practice a “go-to” cue like “find it” then drop a handful of treats behind a parked car or something else in the environment to help to block the oncoming trigger just until the moment has passed.
  • Use a “safe space” or magic mat at dog-friendly cafés or venues so your dog can climb up, feel elevated and choose to stay. Being sure that everyone understands to “ignore” your dog where needed.

Final word

Your little dog isn’t “just small.” It’s a fully capable, complex individual with specific needs. Yes—size adds a few extra risk parameters (fear threshold, vulnerability to pain, owner biases) but it never dictates the future. By understanding the science (maternal care, early life, genetics, health, training), reading the signals early, and advocating smartly, you turn “small dog syndrome” from a myth into an opportunity: a chance to say “small dogs count too—and actually, they hold the key to some of the best, most fun, most rewarding dog-human partnerships.”

Let’s shift the conversation: small dogs deserve big support.

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post on 👇

How To Tackle Jumping Up

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… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S 

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶
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Jumping Up -Why It Happens and How To Tackle A Common Issue

If your once well-behaved puppy suddenly seems to forget everything they’ve learned, you’re not alone. The adolescent phase — usually between 6 to 18 months — can bring a wave of new challenges as your dog’s brain and body mature. Think of it as the teenage phase of their development: hormones, distractions, and big feelings all at once!

One of the most common issues owners face during this stage is jumping up — especially around people. The good news? With management, consistency, and a well-practised alternative behaviour, your dog can absolutely learn better ways to greet.

Why Does It Happen?

Jumping up is natural for dogs. They do it to get attention, greet face-to-face, or release excitement. During adolescence, impulse control dips while energy and social motivation soar — not the best combo! Add in the fact that new people, places, and smells are super stimulating, and it’s easy to see why polite manners can vanish overnight.

Step 1: Manage Before You Train

Use management to prevent unwanted rehearsals of the behaviour. Keep greetings calm and controlled — use a lead or long line, create space, and avoid letting the dog practise jumping.
This isn’t forever! It’s just until your teen pup is emotionally mature enough to handle more stimulation without losing focus.

Step 2: Train an Alternative Behaviour

Start at a distance where your dog can succeed. Practice a calm, incompatible behaviour such as:

  • An automatic sit
  • A “go to mat” or “place” cue
  • A relaxed settle on a bed

Reinforce these generously so they feel just as rewarding as saying hello by jumping.

Step 3: Keep Rewards Low

Always deliver rewards on the floor. This prevents your dog from anticipating treats coming from above — which can encourage more jumping. It is inevitable if everything fun happens at waist height then the dog is much more likely to want to get to the exciting thing more quickly by jumping up as excitement builds so get into the habit of asking your dog to “Find It” on the floor initially.

Step 4: Repetition Builds Reliability

Consistency is everything. It takes around 3–4 weeks for old habits to fade and new ones to stick.
And remember: one excitable jump can set you back a few practice sessions — so think long-term, not instant results.

A great rule of thumb: train 100 reps for the time you’ll need that 101st in real life. Build the muscle memory before you need it.

Step 5: Check the Motivation

Ask yourself:

  • Is my dog overstimulated by people or the environment?
  • Do they know how to switch off?

Try visiting public places to practise simply watching and settling. Start with 5–10 minutes at a distance, then gradually work closer as your dog learns to stay calm.

Final Thoughts

A well-timed “sit” or “what’s this?” is always more effective than shouting “no.” When dogs understand what’s expected, they feel secure — and calm dogs make better choices.

Adolescence can be challenging, but it’s also an opportunity to deepen your bond through patience, practice, and clear communication.

If you’d like to learn more about why adolescent dogs behave this way and how to support them through it, join my Teen Dog Behaviour Webinar on Wednesday nights — dates for the next rotation of webinar topics can be found below👇 🐾

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post in the Seven Most Common Issues In Puppy Training 👇

Part 4- Nipping & Biting – the teething timeline

Part 5- Pulling – Getting started with loose lead

BOOK ZOOM WEBINARS HERE

… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶

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Six Recall Tips For New Dog Owners

From someone who has walked over 30,000 dogs off lead in public😇

Training your dog to come back when called doesn’t have to be stressful or frustrating. With the right approach — a mix of patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement — recall training can become one of the most rewarding parts of your relationship together.

Whether you’re working with a new puppy or an adult dog who’s forgotten what “come” means, these tips will help you build confidence, connection, and reliability… and make your off-lead adventures a whole lot more enjoyable.

1️⃣ Condition Your Recall Cue Until It’s Second Nature

Begin Malibu’s Running through a meadow

Before you even think about dropping the lead, your recall cue (that special word or whistle) needs to be so well-conditioned that your dog responds without thinking.

You want it to feel like a reflex — something your dog does automatically because it’s been so rewarding in the past.

That means thousands of happy, positive repetitions. Play recall games at home, reward generously, and make it fun. Most people stop conditioning too early, but this is where all your future success comes from.

💡 Related reading: 9 Ways to Turn You & Your Dog into Super Learners

2️⃣ Don’t Let Go of the Long Line Too Early

The long line is your best friend in recall training. It keeps your dog safe while giving them a sense of freedom, and it gives you the chance to reward successful recalls without risking a “zoomies” moment.

The biggest mistake I see is people dropping the line too soon — usually because things are going well! Keep it on until your dog’s recall feels reliable and predictable.

It’s not about holding them back; it’s about setting them up to succeed.

3️⃣ Start Small and Build Distance Gradually

Intense tri coloured border collie running at speed across a field

Dreaming of that picture-perfect recall across a wide-open field? It all starts close to home — literally.

I like to begin with recall games within just 6–10 feet of me. Reward every time your dog turns and runs back towards you. Once they’re flying to you with excitement at that distance, then start to build space.

Think of it as climbing a ladder: you can’t skip the lower rungs and expect to stay balanced at the top!

4️⃣ Use the 25% Rule

Here’s a simple guideline I use with all my clients: when your recall success rate is 75% or higher, you’re ready to start testing off lead.

If that rate dips below 75%, gather up the long line again and return to an easier stage. Training progress isn’t about perfection; it’s about building confidence — for both of you.

5️⃣ Practice in Different Environments

Your dog’s recall might be flawless in the garden but vanish the second you step into a park full of smells and squirrels — and that’s completely normal!

Dogs don’t generalise the way we do. So when you change locations, lower the difficulty slightly, make it fun again, and rebuild success in that new setting.

The more variety you build in early, the stronger (and more reliable) your recall will become over time.

6️⃣ Find a “Recall Bestie”

Black and white dog in a black harness runs through long grass with his mouth open

This is one of my favourite tips! Dogs learn a lot simply by watching other dogs.

If you know a dog with brilliant recall, plan some joint walks. When you call both dogs, your friend’s dog will dash straight back — and yours will often follow.

It’s a brilliant example of social learning in action and one of the easiest ways to get more recall “reps” without pressure.

💭 Final Thoughts

Building a great recall isn’t about being the loudest person in the park — it’s about creating such a strong, positive association that your dog wants to come back to you.

Take your time, keep sessions short and upbeat, and celebrate every small success. Each recall builds trust, strengthens communication, and makes your bond even stronger.

Peach close runs whilst loooking to the right with mouth open and orange lead attached to a purple collar

📣 Ready to Take It Further?

🐕 Join me this Wednesday 8th October for my Live Webinar Via Zoom “Restart Recall” at 7pm


We’ll cover practical exercises, common pitfalls, and live demonstrations that you can use straight away with your dog.

Weekly Webinar Schedule Of Topics For The Four Weeks – Use the link below to book👇
BOOK RECALL WEBINAR HERE

🎉 And don’t forget — only 14 days left to book your place on my 5-Week Restart Recall Course here in Plymouth! It’s the perfect opportunity to reset, rebuild, and strengthen your dog’s recall in a fun, supportive environment. Starting Sunday 19th October at 7pm (week one online via zoom – 90 minute webinar) then subsequent 4 weeks will be in person at a secure field in Bickleigh Plymouth at 3pm

Restart Recall Advert Starting Oct 19th at 7pm use the link below to book 5 week course in Plymouth
BOOK HERE FOR RESTART RECALL 5 WEEK COURSE

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – Sara

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9 Ways To Turn Your Dog Into A Super Learner

How to Create a Dog That Loves Learning: By Becoming A Well Prepared Owner

Training your dog doesn’t have to be a chore. With a little patience, consistency, and a whole lot of positivity, you can turn learning into a fun and rewarding experience for both you and your canine companion. Here’s 9 ways in which you can create a dog that loves learning, in a relaxed and enjoyable way.

1. Start with Easy Wins

Begin with simple commands even before you start to train the obvious stuff like “sit” or “down” in a quiet environment. You can begin to reward your dog for looking up at the sound of his name OR for “Checking In” doing it so often that it becomes a reflex is a great starting point which. These early successes build your dog’s confidence and set the stage for more complex training. A great example of an easy win is when we try and get our dogs to engage with enrichment activities – shy nervous or easily frustrated dogs and puppies might not actually know what to do to begin with so you can start by point or showing the dog how to do something and mark and reward the moment their nose touches a treat (a simple rolled up tea towel with treats inside is a wonderful easy win). See my previous post about Every Day Enrichment Ideas Here.

2. Embrace Imperfection

Perfection isn’t the goal—progress is. Celebrate small victories and understand that mistakes are part of the learning process. Your dog’s journey is about improvement, not flawlessness. The aim of the game is to get the behaviours you want loosely then you have plenty of time to polish anything up over time and as the dog matures or becomes more engaged with the whole process of training. Even if that means getting a little creative with how you train something (because there are a plethora of ways to train one thing) it’s mostly about confidence building for you both as a team and whether or not you can go away and actually get a little bit done often because imperfect consistency is better than no training at all.

If you really find yourself hitting a brick wall with a certain behaviour don’t hesitate to get in contact or at the very least send your trainer a video of you doing the behaviour and we can tell you what aspect of your training mechanics or reward delivery might need a little more practice.Contact me here 😅

3. Train Frequently, Seize Every Opportunity

Incorporate training into daily routines. Whether it’s during walks, meal times, or play sessions, use these moments to reinforce commands and behaviors. A great example of this is to get into the habit of naming everything that is significant on your walk- because if you always say a certain word or give a specific hand gesture at the same points on your walk the dog will get into the habit of predicting your behaviour and over time start to look as though “they trained themselves” when actually what is more likely is that you were predictable with your body language and words when out and about with your dog.

For example ; I talk in sound bites to my dogs and give slightly over exaggerated arm signals so that I can see they’ve seen them – it’s all communication after.

Need to cross the road – always say “Wait” at every curb then “Cross” with an outstretched arm signal that acts not only as the “release cue” as it were it also tells my dog what direction we are going.

Need the dog to get up into a crate in the car? I get into the habit of getting dogs to jump “up up” onto and into things on my way as well as “off” in the opposite direction for when I need them to then generalise that to getting “up up” into the car with a tossed treat luring them into the crate to begin with and again when they need to get out a flat palm to ask to “wait” and then “off” when they need to get themselves out.

Remember to think about does this behaviour look like something they already know? If so adapt a previous behaviour so you don’t have to work so hard.

Got a dog that loves to sit as a default behaviour ? use this as the cue to prevent jumping up instead of creating a new cue work with the one you already have 👍

4. Use Hand Signals First

We are verbal creatures and live to add words to everything (see previous point😅) yet dogs however, are highly visual learners. Start with hand signals before adding verbal cues. This approach helps your dog associate actions with commands more easily. This way we don’t even need to worry so much about what words we are using half of the time but I’d my body language looks similar to something they’ve done before it is likely I can tell a Spanish dog to sit by simply asking what hand signal they use instead. I mean let’s be honest it must all sound like gobbledygook to our dogs in the beginning anyway.

5. Shape Behavior Gradually

Instead of expecting your dog to perform a complex behavior immediately, break it down into smaller steps. Reward each step toward the desired behavior to encourage progress. For example maybe your dog is struggling with retrieving something or they drop the toy to early. Start with the end result train a dog

1- a chin rest (get the dog used to having your hand under their shin for longer and longer amounts of time)

2- get the dog to hold a toy with a chin rest

3- get the dog to pick up the toy and then release it like previously mentioned

4- start to toss that toy slightly further away

5- add distance to the tossed toy etc etc

And voila you have back chained (reverse engineered as it were) a behaviour by breaking it down into 5 steps instead of wondering why your dog goes to get the toy but drops it before they come all the way back – start closer and work out.

6. Introduce a Marker Cue

A marker cue like “good,” “yep,” or a clicker helps your dog understand exactly what behavior is being rewarded. This clarity speeds up the learning process. But the caveats I want to add here is that you must classically condition your cues to begin with. There’s no pint in saying yep good or click if they have no perceived meaning yet – much like telling your dog “no” if there is no association with it yet. This just means they must hear the word and a reward appears for many many repetitions much like your dog starts to associate their name with your attention or a treat for example. You do it so much that it becomes a reflex. Go and call your dog – if they don’t immediately price their ears up or look up chances are you haven’t done enough classical conditioning yet. Then with good timing your dog can hear your cue “yep” or “good” “click” and know that that means a reward is coming.

7. Add Verbal Cues Later

I know I just told you to make everything because ….why not but you actually NEED to worry about the exact words you use initially. If it’s a new behaviour you might have noticed that there are a couple of steps you need to do first anyway to be sure the dog knows what you’re asking and then when they start to pre-empt a kite or a hand signal you can start to add a word. Focus on the behavior, and introduce verbal cues once your dog consistently performs the action is actually the most efficient way to train. But for the smarty pants dogs who have a learned history with training then I speed it up and do hand signals and naming at almost the same time- but that’s just me.

8. Practice the Mechanics of Training

Don’t run before you can walk. A lot of mishaps or odd foibles that your dog does are usually because your training “mechanics” are a bit clunky. So taking a little time to master the foundations of your own muscle memory / how you lure your dog into behaviours/ what your own body language looks like to your dog/ how will I deliver the reward all effects whether or not your dog gets what you are asking. So for example if you’ve never taught loose lead behaviours before definitely don’t start with the lead attached- go home and practiced the techniques shown to you in the garden with the lead OFF before you add in a layer of complexity with the lead inevitably brings, then you need to add in your marker word and treat delivery in the go – all things that need to be practiced individually BEFORE you take it out into the real world where you then have to navigate – other people, distractions, terrains. Etc etc, practicing in this way builds your confidence and ensures you’re prepared for various situations when you need to be in full control of your dog as well.

9. Phase Out Lures Gradually

If you’re using treats or toys to guide your dog’s behavior, slowly reduce their use over time. This helps your dog learn to respond to cues without relying on external rewards. That again comes with a BIG CAVEAT I am never in a massive hurry to phase out lures for young shy or nervous dogs because they need as much repetition and confidence building as possible but as that confidence and reliability grows or in some cases matures, we can start to phase out treats for less valuable reward such as touch, play or praise- eg; quickly go from rewarding every successful attempt of a behaviour to every other / to every third to just once or twice a walk. But I’m never without some form of reward regardless of how long a dog has learned something for because the world is unpredictable and I cant expect my dog to be perfect in all scenarios so having some “emergency rewards” never goes a miss.

By following these steps, you can foster a positive learning environment that strengthens the bond between you and your dog. Remember, the key is consistency, patience, and making learning enjoyable for both of you. Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer 🐶👍 S

I’d you enjoyed this post please check out my previous post on Knowing how long to leave your dog home alone x

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How Long Is Too Long? Understanding Your Dog’s Alone Time Needs

A Dog Owner’s Guide to Balancing Alone Time and Welfare

Let’s talk about something we’ve all probably mused over at one time or another as a dog guardian: how long can you really leave your dog home alone?

Technically, the Animal Welfare Act 2006 suggests that after 4 hours assuming that your dog has also just partaken in some form of enforced crating (think overnight in a crate for an average of 8 hours), it would be time to consider your dog’s welfare. Dogs are social creatures, after all, and leaving them for long stretches without interaction isn’t ideal.

In fact, the PDSA is pushing for an additional welfare guideline to consider dogs’ rights to companionship beyond that 4-hour mark. The science is simple: dogs thrive on interaction, and too much alone time can lead to boredom, anxiety, and even stress-related behaviors.

But how long is too long?

A tan faced beagle is lying down on a grey couch

Context Is Key: A Quick Reality Check

For a little perspective, animals in transit on their way to slaughter (yes, grim but relevant) can’t travel for more than 8 hours without a break for food, water, and in some cases, a quick hose down. So if even livestock in transit get regulated breaks, it makes sense to extend similar consideration to our household pets too doesn’t it?

While some dogs—like seniors, puppies, or those with medical conditions—may need more tailored routines, the general rule of thumb is to limit alone time to 4-6 hours, with 8 hours being the absolute maximum in most cases.

What Can You Do?

Here’s where your creativity and resourcefulness come into play. It’s all about breaking up your dog’s day:

  • Enlist Help: Think family, neighbours, friends, or even a professional dog walker.
  • Pop-In Visits: A quick visit to let them out, give them some love, and maybe toss a frisbee can make all the difference.
  • Gradual Training: If your dog isn’t used to being alone, work up to it gradually with the help of a specialist dog trainer/ behaviourist.

Gradual Alone-Time Training: Step-by-Step

If you’re planning on leaving your dog alone while you’re at work, it’s worth setting them up for success:

  1. Start Small: Begin with short periods out of the house, like 2 hours or even less if your dog has ZERO practice (thirty seconds is all I’m asking to begin with).
  2. Use a Camera: Set up a pet cam and see what your dog does when you’re gone. (Spoiler: the camera doesn’t lie.)
  3. Extend Slowly: Once your dog is comfortable, try 3 hours, then 4. Adjust based on what you observe. Even 1 minute / 2 minutes in micro bursts might be where you start.

It’s worth noting that adjusting to a new routine can take time—sometimes up to 6 weeks. So please be patient!

A shirt faces pug lies down in front of a glass door looking out

Setting Your Dog Up for Success

Here’s a handy checklist to help your dog settle into their alone time:

  1. Get Them Moving: Make sure your dog gets a good walk before you leave, but avoid high-energy activities like frisbee or fetch, which can leave them tired but overstimulated.
    • Instead, try scent-based activities like scatter feeding or search games to help them decompress on the way home.
  2. Feed Them: A well-fed dog is much more likely to nap afterwards. I often do this AFTER their walk due to issues regarding bloat (I have two deep chested dogs).
  3. Provide a Cozy Space: Create a comfortable “hotel spot” where they can snooze undisturbed whilst you are out. The more appealing and luxury the better.
  4. Offer Enrichment: Puzzle toys, Kongs, or chew toys can keep them entertained—but introduce these while you’re still home so they don’t associate them with you leaving. Give yourself plenty of time to leave. I use the rule that enrichment for the day goes down 30 minutes before I leave.
  5. Keep the Goodbye Drama-Free: No long farewells. Just calmly set them up and go. By planning these morning routines well we can set our dogs up well.
  6. Lastly – make sure you are actually out of sight and out of their scent range because dogs will settle sooner if they can smell you upstairs or out on the doorstep for example. We need to make it as true to life as possible.
A large Black and Tan shepherd mix breed lies down on the decking with his mouth open whilst wearing a black harness on

The Bottom Line

Knowing how long your dog can currently cope is only the starting point. If your dog is struggling when left, the goal isn’t simply to find the right amount of time to leave them — it’s to help them genuinely become comfortable being home alone.

That’s exactly what I walk you through in my Separation Anxiety Survival Guide — a one-hour, pre-recorded webinar giving you a roadmap for understanding where your dog is now, what to work on next, and how to move towards a dog who can genuinely feel OK home alone.

Get Access To The Separation Anxiety Survival Guide Here

Your dog doesn’t need 24/7 supervision, but they do deserve thoughtful planning to ensure their welfare. With a mix of routine, training, and enrichment, you can strike a balance that keeps your dog happy and healthy—while giving you peace of mind.

So, whether it’s calling on a neighbour, investing in a pet camera, or adjusting your dog’s routine, small changes can make a big difference and remeber it’s never too late to start home alone training.

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer Sara.

If you enjoyed this post feel free to check out my previous Home Alone Posts Here 👉 How to start home alone training & Five myths about separation anxiety

If you want to work with me then you can email me here Contact Sara at About Town Pets as I now offer online 1-2-1 dog training in person in an 8 miles radius of Plymouth Uk or online for the rest of the UK USA Canada Europe New Zealand and Australia specialising in the following topics;

Separation Related Distress

Lead Reactivity

Adolescent Dogs (6-18 months old)

Tiny Dog Behaviour (dogs under 7kgs)

City Dogs (adapting training for urban environments)

Or BOOK NOW 👉Home Alone Heroes Package

Please be sure to check out my Facebook page for upcoming webinar topics coming soon About Town Pets On Facebook

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How To Train An Alternative To Lungeing Forward

Common in herders and hunters

I recently replied to an enquiry looking at how to train a twelve month old Australian Shepherd who was nervous in general around novel stimulus , who lives in a farm environment (riding stable) and didn’t have much experience of the wider world except for trips to the beach occasionally. He lunges forward when asked to meet and greet new people and also circles and barks when anyone tries to leave the premises or the group if they are out walking when off the lead.

Sound familiar ? It should be , it’s a common trait in sheep herding breeds and may also look quite similar (but is not the same thing) in flock guardians and hunting breeds (sighthounds and gundogs like spaniels for example) whilst each dog is an individual and some parts of my advice would be tailored depending on the age sex breed and learned history of an individual – here is my response for a young inexperienced shy/nervous collie. But the techniques and “foundation training” would be very similair for dogs exhibiting these sorts of behaviour. Also if your dog is over 2-3 years old you can gloss over the first section and go straight to the second paragraph. You may recognise some of the things I mention if you think back to when your dog was 12-18 months old. If you find yourself nodding your head and saying “ah yes Fido did used to do that a lot when he was X months old” then I’m here to tell you why that happens in the next paragraph. Still nodding? Maybe take a quick look at my previous post Help my teenage dog has forgotten everything 👈

Let’s get into it.

Firstly welcome to adolescence. Twelve months old is roughly around the time a secondary fear period can kick in coupled with a few other things you have the perfect storm. Take the fact that your pup is also quite an anxious dog by nature then you can see how any previous behaviours such as some form of overarousal around novelty (new people, new places ,too much going on at once) can make those “reactions” more amplified. It is important that any training during this period is done gently and at a level the dog can cope with. Distance is your friend. Start any training at a distance that he can cope with and work back up to meeting and greeting people and also watching or participating at the edge of classes.

Now you mention his ability to cope for an hour or two -that’s amazing for a teenage dog. I agree that these are traits shepherding dogs do naturally and without ample opportunity to meet his needs in regards to his pastoral behaviours then when he gets super frustrated tired excited or fearful he will resort back to behaviours he has been selectively bred for (micromanaging his environment or space seeking behaviours if he is very nervous) looking for the body language that his behaviour has tipped over the edge of his ability to cope is your first port of call, training for this scenario is done separately. This is where we start to build the scaffolding or foundations for any future behaviours we may need to chain together in the not so distant future.

Laying The Foundations First

I would put the “eye stalk” part of his behaviour on cue “look” mark and reward for eventually disengaging an actively reward for an alternative which is looking back at the handler and moving away.

The key is to mark and reward AFTER he’s disengaged. Obviously do this in a calmer environment to get the initial behaviour. With enough repetitions you will get a dog that fulfils the “eye stalk” part of the behaviour without the chase and grab part of the behaviour. You could also fulfil that bit of the behaviour too. Once you have a reliable return from the eye stalk what will the next behaviour be? This is dependent on what suits your dog I often teach a very simple nose touch to hand for nervous dogs as a little confidence booster or if we also wanted to fulfil the chase grab bite sensibly, when he returns perhaps wanting a “kryptonite” toy throw it past yourself so he has to chase the toy on returning to you this would also get him engaged in an alternative to going forward. Then we could add the last behaviour to the chain and play tug “grab bite part” this is how agility is trained for example the reward is at the end ususally an amazing fluffy tug toy of some description. And remember to let the dog actually win the toy and keep it.

Make sure this is done on lead to begin with to prevent unwanted rehearsal lungeing forward to start with. Keeping the lead relaxed (this is why distance is crucial to begin) So your behaviour chain looks like this (at a distance) Eye Stalk something in the environment anything moving- cue “Look”- wait for it (.you may need to find something that helps get his attention in the first few instances / squeaker his name / anything trained so it has become a reflex) Mark “Yes” for disengagement back to you – then throw the toy past you as you move away from the dog – dog orientates towards you- gets quicker or chases you- throw it slightly behind you (add distance to this throw as he gets the hang of it) play tug or allow him to play with the toy – ask for a drop or not – train this seperately/ repeat (at each stage proof the behaviour – so that generalising can take place).

But My Dog Doesn’t Take Food Or Toys When We Are Outside

If the dog isn’t taking food or toys rewards when they normally would in a calmer environment it’s a good indicator that your environment is too over stimulating or stressful – go back a step and further proof the step before moving on / your ability to time your marker cue when he disengages is key – quicker timing faster learning less repetitions needed😅

Does Your Dog Really Need To Say Hi To Everyone?

I’d argue not really, now that we know it could be adding to your dogs “busvket of stress” , too many unmanaged interactions in this way may result in a dog having to resort to the behaviour we’ve previously looked at as a result of too many triggering things happening in succession. So I’d give meeting and greeting a break for a month and just do this stuff mentioned instead after all the training and confidence boosting you could do the same when people approach because l can almost guarantee your dog doesn’t want to meet and greet when he’s shy about new people instead work of focus on the handler whilst people throw rewards away from themselves (giving treats from their hands can cause conflict in the dog so best avoided – think I really want that treat but I really don’t want to go near that person usually results in hand grabbing and increased arousal- so best voided) get visitors to calmly throw any reward past the dog so that he moves away from them instead of towards / a much safer option would be to do some antisocial training and by this I simply mean reward everything that looks like focusing on the handler in the presence of new people- not every dog is a social butterfly sometimes the best we can ask for is tolerance but we don’t get tolerance if we constantly force the dog to do stuff they are not yet equipped to deal with.

Things To Add To Your Foundation Work

Once You Have A Reliable Reinforcement History

I would also then be teaching your dog directions with a solid down (as he seems to be very good at this ie has a reliable reinforcement history) Utilise what your dog already knows well, this will save you a lot of time. Let’s say he can still eye stalk well , always returning to the handler for disengaging. I would now start to this progress this behaviour off lead. Eventually with enough repetitions you will get a dog that looks at his triggers and starts to reflexively return to you for “the grab game or a treat toss behind you” reward delivery is key to getting engagement up. And don’t be in a hurry – we are trying to build a new association for the one previously learned which takes time and patience 👍

For further guidance on how to train the foundations in this behaviour change take a look at Predation Substitute Training by Simone Mueller who has a wonderful book on Amazon on the subject- Whilst you are there also check out a book called Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt And for the engage disengage section look up Grisha Stewarts many free resources on Grisha Stewart’s Behavioural Adjustment Training she too has a very useful book on lead handling and creating behaviour change. I like to use a mixture of all of these techniques).

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How To Train High Energy Dogs

Part Three

In the previous blog posts in this series we looked at two ways in which we can set up our adolescent or high energy breeds of dog for success in regards to trying to train them and getting them to a point in which they might actually be able to concentrate on the task you are trying to set them. We looked at PRE-TRAINING Here, whereby we give those dogs something to do BEFORE we even leave the house and also look at implementing a structured walk Here , depending on the dogs personality and temperament type.

Next up I’m going to give you some little insider tips as to WHERE and HOW I implement all of the things I have mentioned in my previous blog posts. There’s even a bonus tip for all of those who have read all the way to the end of this post.

So here are some of my insider tips;

Insider tip #1

Change it up- your dog gets super excited by leaving through a specific door? Or has your walk become a bit of sprint to get to the nearest green space so we can play (insert your dogs favourite game here)? If yes then change it up. Start to exit your house from a different exit, where possible or change the route to the park, better yet- occasionally don’t even go to the park just so a “sniffy” walk. If your PRE-TRAINING phase was good enough you might be able to encourage your to go for a longer more varied route today that doesn’t end in a game at the park. What we are trying to achieve with this is to get your dog to “UNLEARN” what his walk “always” looks like. If he ALWAYS go to the park at the same time every day and it’s this “rush” that you are trying to prevent with loose lead training, then going the same route isn’t going to help your dog to concentrate in the beginning phase when we are training a new behaviour. This is where the next tip might help you.

Insider tip #2

If in doubt , drive- if the thought of being pulled down the road for fifteen minutes does not appeal to you perhaps we need to make the conscious decision to drive somewhere quite and free from distractions. This is what is meant your dog trainer asks you to start training somewhere with low distractions once you’ve graduated from training in the back garden or in the house. Now it’s your turn to find open spaces, private enclosed fields or “secret spots” where you can train with less distractions from dogs or people coming up to you and unravelling that days work. I encourage owners who are “loose lead” training to drive to a quite open area to play a game with your dog or go for a walk on a long line and then train on the way back. Making sure to park a bit further away each time, allowing your dog to concentrate on loose lead a bit more each day. I also encourage owners with reactive dogs to go somewhere that looks like “real life” but isn’t. Which leads to my next tip.

Insider tip #3

Real Life Mock Ups – three places I like to train dogs that looks like real life but isn’t as busy. Here are three to start you off.

Enclosed fields are a godsend, but they are not all created equal, especially if you have a reactive dog. Choose one that has a gap between fields so that the dogs can perhaps see each other from afar but can’t actually get to each other, because nothing ruins recall practice like three dogs running up and down the fence line over threshold for forty five minutes.

Cemeteries are an under-utilised little gem that I like to use because more often than not , they require all dogs to be on lead at all times. It’s a great place to practice your lead handling skills, to practice “look/look away” for reactive dogs and provides ample opportunities to use “street furniture” as it were, to your advantage. Getting to close to an oncoming dog? Dart behind a row of tombstones. Need to practice coming up to a junction, use a headstone as a buffer. Want practice loose lead somewhere other than your street , the local cemetery is a great alternative. I know it sounds mad but they are usually quite and often with other likeminded people with dogs in training. Make sure to take your “in training” cuff or waistcoat with you so people don’t think your absolutely going crazy. My local cemetery had a wonderful caretaker who loved seeing me train dogs as long as we respected funeral days and picked up after ourselves obviously👍

Industrial Estates are also your friend , they are usually quieter or even empty on the weekends and are great places to practice with stooge dogs (calm well socialised dogs, that you know personally) from a distance walking up and down as if on a “real life” with the added bonus of having less people traffic and dogs in these areas as well as nice open car parks for nervous dogs to practice meeting and greeting dogs on long lines that are very well managed/handled. I also like to use them to parallel walks with calm and reactive dogs across the street from each other.

So there you have it how to train high energy dogs in three parts.By taking the pressure off yourself and realising that is actually better for all involved. Here is a recap of what I would do if I was trying struggle to get my crazy springer spaniel to practice some loose lead or even work on building up a nervous dogs positive associations with previous triggers.

Pre-train before you leave

Prepare for your walk by changing your exits and possibly changing the routes you take to make them less predictable for excitable or frustrated dogs.

Make walks more predictable for nervous dogs, however.

Choose an appropriate venue to allow your dog to succeed.

Incorporate some structure into the walk with engaging activities followed by calming activities, to prevent overstimulation.

Train on the way back to the car or on the way home.

Continue to find venues that can help your dogs to practice with minimal distractions or where you can build back up to “real life” busier scenarios over time.

Hopefully this has helped you to see what is required and in what order to help you to train you busy, high energy dog. Keep scrolling to read my BONUS TIP below that I think it’s really important you know when dealing with busy working breeds.

If you enjoyed this post please check out my previous posts in the three part blog series on Training High Energy Dogs here. Or you can sign up with your email HERE COMING SOON – – to grab a copy of 101 enrichment ideas for your dog via email. Before you go check out the Bonus Tips Below👇👇

Bonus Tips – For Training High Energy Dogs

Before you go I’d like to share with you this bonus tip.

Practice three things if you own a high energy dog

Sloppy handling timing and general mechanics of how you distribute rewards to your dog can have a big effect on how quickly or how clearly your dog learns your new skills. So if you get the chance , get a professional in to look at all of those things before embarking on your training with your dog, this is because high energy dogs can also become easily frustrated and often have short attention spans , these are both things that can hinder our success and are not the dogs fault, even though it might look that way. So before you start to think your dog is stubborn or being grumpy please practice these three things-

Lead Handling Skills – more space is better for our busy dogs so being able to literally pick up the slack in a timely and confident manner will help you to manage your dog quickly, knowing how to stop your dog gradually, how to prevent your lead from getting tangled and knowing where the end of the lead is (no extendable leads for the love of god people).

Timing – learning to capture the correct behaviour with a word like “yes” or “good” followed by the reward is important because we often miss lots of good attempts because we leave it too long to mark and reward. Get good at looking for the behaviour you want and get in the habit of saying “yes” followed by the next step.

Delivery – otherwise known as your mechanics. How might your body language be affecting what your dog is doing? Are we sloppy with the lead? Do we get tangled up so miss the point at which we could have marked and rewarded some amazing loose lead? It’s muscle memory. We can only get good at this bit with practice. We will get what we put in. Practice luring your dog into position, practice holding a treat under your thumb so we can get the dog into the right position before marking “yes” and releasing the treat into their mouth. Or do we have a hand grabber? if so get good at rolling treats directly in their eye line so they don’t spend to long “searching” for their reward. As you get quicker at all of these things so too will your dog get quicker at picking up what you actually want 👍

Hope all of this helped. Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer, Sara.x

Ps if you would like to work with me in person or online please feel free to contact me here Contact Sara Here

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