Frustration in adolescent dogs

Adolescence Isn’t Disobedience: Understanding the 7-Month-Old Spaniel Brain

I recently responded to a post about a 7-month-old Cocker Spaniel who was “pulling like a train” and they were asking for a harness that “stops pulling”. Other phrases that kept coming up were ones I hear all the time:

“He’s suddenly forgotten everything.”
“His attention span is like a gnat’s.”
“He’s pushing boundaries and meeting force with force.”

Welcome to canine adolescence.

This phase can feel like all your hard work has unravelled overnight, but what you’re seeing isn’t stubbornness, dominance, or your dog “being naughty”. It’s biology.

The Teenage Dog Brain (or: Why Your Dog Can’t Put the Brakes On)

A 7-month-old dog is roughly equivalent to a 14-year-old human teenager.

Their body is developing rapidly, hormones are surging, and crucially — their frontal cortex hasn’t caught up yet.

The frontal cortex is the part of the brain responsible for:

  • Impulse control
  • Emotional regulation
  • Decision-making
  • The ability to pause and think before acting

In dogs, this area doesn’t fully mature until around 18 months of age.

So when we expect a teenage dog to “just make better choices”, we’re asking them to use a part of the brain that quite literally isn’t finished yet.

Be the Swan 🦢 (Even When You’re Screaming Inside)

I often tell clients to be like a swan.

On the surface: calm, graceful, unbothered.
Underneath: paddling like mad, thinking “for goodness sake”, and feeling frustrated.

Feeling frustration is normal. It’s human. It’s part of our emotional repertoire.

But dogs don’t need us to win against them — they need us to be smarter than their nervous system.

Meeting force with force during adolescence often escalates behaviour, because the dog simply doesn’t have the neurological capacity to regulate themselves yet.

What Adolescent Stress Actually Looks Like

During this phase, dogs become more easily frustrated, and stress shows up in ways that often confuse owners.

You might see:

  • Scratching in the middle of play
  • Yawning when nothing seems tiring
  • Shaking off when they’re not wet
  • Avoiding things they were previously fine with
  • Lunging or barking at familiar sights
  • Sudden “out of context” behaviours

These are stress displacement behaviours — signs that the dog’s nervous system is struggling to cope.

When pressure continues, dogs may opt for space-increasing behaviours, such as:

  • Pawing at you to make you stop
  • Mouthing or grabbing clothing
  • Snapping to create distance

This isn’t aggression — it’s communication.

Redirect, Don’t Confront

Instead of challenging the behaviour head-on, I prefer redirection using cues the dog already understands well.

One of my favourites is:

“What’s this?”

It taps into curiosity and makes the dog come towards you to see what they’re missing out on.

If you can teach:

  • “Up up” → you can teach “Off”
  • “Come and see” → instead of pushing away

Always ask yourself:

What is the opposite of the behaviour I don’t want?

Examples:

  • Jumping up → a solid sit on a mat
  • Mouthing → stopping and picking up a toy
  • Recall issues → working very close for a long time to build value in staying with you

Distance is earned. Adolescents need to relearn proximity.

Puberty = Instincts Switching On

Puberty typically hits between 7–9 months, and this is when a dog’s breed-specific behaviours really start to emerge.

Under pressure or frustration, dogs revert to what they were selectively bred to do.

For example:

  • Spaniels like to hold and possess
  • Retrievers like to carry things in their mouths
  • Guardian breeds may grab and pull down

These behaviours often increase when:

  • The dog is frustrated
  • The dog doesn’t know what’s being asked
  • Training lacks clarity
  • Tasks change too quickly

Dogs don’t default to calm thinking under stress — they default to instinct.

Why Frustration Tips Over So Fast (Especially on Lead)

Frustration builds pressure in the nervous system, and pressure needs an outlet.

This is why:

  • Dogs are often more reactive on lead than off
  • Tension on the lead escalates behaviour
  • Lack of movement increases emotional overflow

Under pressure, behaviour can escalate quickly into:

  • Barking
  • Lunging
  • Snapping

Not because the dog is “bad”, but because their coping capacity has been exceeded.

A Note on Harness Battles

If getting equipment on and off has become a battle, you have two options:

1. Change the Equipment

Some dogs struggle with harnesses that go over the head.
A step-in or Velcro harness can remove that stress entirely.

2. Go Back a Step

Slow the whole process down.

  • Break it into smaller steps
  • Reinforce calm behaviour
  • Reduce the “faff”

Sometimes removing the equipment altogether for a short reset helps, because the dog has learned to predict:

“Something uncomfortable or stressful is about to happen.”

If in doubt:

  • Change the cue
  • Change the equipment
  • Start again from scratch

There is no failure in resetting — only information.

The Takeaway

Adolescence isn’t a training problem.
It’s a developmental phase.

Your dog isn’t giving you a hard time — they’re having a hard time.

With clarity, patience, and an understanding of what’s happening inside that teenage brain, this phase doesn’t have to be something you “get through”.

It can be something you guide them through — calmly, consistently, and with empathy.

And yes… sometimes while paddling furiously under the surface 🦢

If you appreciated this post feel free to check out my previous post Help My Puppy Won’t Settle At Night here👈

Before you go you might want to check out my 12 Days Of Woofmas by adding your email to my newsletter sign up page Here to get access to 12 days of canine science right into your inbox there will also be 12 videos to accompany those emails on a private section of this website as well as daily tasks to complete via email – so if you want to keep yourself busy over the Christmas period feel free to sign up now 👍

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer and behaviourist.

S x

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Little Dog Syndrome- What Small Breeds Really Need

Small dogs need big personalities for you to “listen” to them.

If you’ve ever heard the phrase “little dog syndrome”, you might picture a tiny dog with big attitude—yapping, bossing other dogs around, maybe even snappy or reactive. It’s a phrase many people toss around with a wink. But as with many catchy sayings, the reality is far more nuanced than it seems.

What the phrase implies

The term suggests that small-breed dogs are inherently more problematic: more yappy, more aggressive, more spoiled. It frames size as the root cause of behaviour problems. But the truth: size alone doesn’t determine behaviour. What does matter is why behaviour issues arise — and how we support small dogs (and their owners) differently.

What the science reveals

  • Research shows that smaller dogs do have higher odds of owner-reported fearfulness and aggression than larger dogs — but size is just one of many factors. For example, one large-scale study found that smaller body size correlated with higher risk of fear and aggression, but the authors emphasised that this is a broad, population-level trend, not a destiny for any individual dog.
  • Another key piece: early life and maternal care matter a lot. Puppies whose dams were less stressed, who gave more consistent licking/nursing and contact, develop into calmer, more resilient adults.
  • Behaviour issues in small dogs are frequently driven by pain or medical issues (for example dental disease, joint problems, airway or spine issues) rather than “just being a small dog with attitude.” When pain is relieved, behaviour often improves.
  • Nutrition and training style matter too: diet can support behaviour improvement (though it isn’t a silver bullet) and training methods that rely on rewards, respect and clear communication outperform punitive methods — especially for smaller dogs.

So what’s really at play?

Here are the bigger drivers behind what gets labelled “small dog syndrome”:

  • Higher vigilance: Many small breeds were bred to alert or watch (rather than herd or guard). That means a lower threshold to respond to stimuli (doorbell, stranger, passer-by).
  • Owner handling biases: Small dogs are easier to pick up, more likely to be carried, less likely to be handled like larger dogs (walked as much, trained as much). This can reduce their confidence and increase fear.
  • Overlooking health issues: Because they’re small, pain or discomfort in the joints, spine, teeth or airway may be overlooked — and an irritable, anxious dog often looks like a behaviour problem.
  • Inadequate training/enrichment: Smaller dogs still need outlets for their breed-instincts, socialisation, movement and mental challenges — these get missed if we think “small = easy.”
  • Environment and management: Running into strangers, dogs or stimuli at high speed without a plan creates stress; small dogs are more vulnerable to feeling “trapped” (less body mass, fewer escape options) so reading early signals matters.

What you can do to advocate for your small dog

1. Read the body language early

Look for the subtle-before-the-problem: lip licks, head turn, freezing, shifting weight, crouching or making the body smaller. These aren’t “cute” — they’re stress signals. Intervene early: give space, create a barrier (your body, a bench), redirect to a positive behaviour (scatter a few treats, hand-target, escort to safe zone).

2. Check health/pain before punishing behaviour

Especially in small breeds, do a “vet audit” when you see a new or changed behaviour: dental examination (crowded jaws are common); joint check (patella, spine/neck, hips); airway/trachea or breathing issues; signs of neuropathic pain (especially in certain breeds). Pain-driven behaviour is teachable — but only after treating the cause.

3. Tailor training to small-dog size & needs

  • Use a well-fitted Y-front or front-clip harness instead of a tight collar (especially for toy or brachycephalic breeds)
  • Teach “station” (mat on the floor or low bench) so your small dog has a safe base
  • Practice “hand-target,” “middle” (dog between your legs), “scatter-sniff” breaks during walks
  • Use short sessions frequently (2–3 mins several times a day) to suit small body/attention spans
  • Build “consent handling” (dog comes to you for grooming/touch rather than you always picking it up) to build resilience and trust

4. Provide enrichment & mental outlets

Small breed owners often think “less space = less need.” But with little dogs especially, enrichment helps reduce reactivity and fear: puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, short high-value walks, nosework, training games, “Look at that” with new people/dogs at distance.

5. Change the narrative: dismissing “small dog = easy”

Educate your network: small dogs can do a lot — we just need to support them right. They deserve the same structured socialisation, and predictable training, and patience. The phrase “small dog syndrome” stops being an excuse and becomes a stepping-stone to doing better.

6. Create safe walks & encounters

Because small dogs are physically closer to obstacles, less body-mass to buffer stress, teach your clients / owners to anticipate:

  • Use visual scanning: what’s ahead? Could another dog/child move towards us quickly?
  • If yes: U-turn early or cross the road, give space.
  • If in doubt keep moving – lead reactivity is often an attempt to create space if we take on the role of manager we can always help the dog out and keep moving- knowing your dogs initial safe distance is important.
  • Practice a “go-to” cue like “find it” then drop a handful of treats behind a parked car or something else in the environment to help to block the oncoming trigger just until the moment has passed.
  • Use a “safe space” or magic mat at dog-friendly cafés or venues so your dog can climb up, feel elevated and choose to stay. Being sure that everyone understands to “ignore” your dog where needed.

Final word

Your little dog isn’t “just small.” It’s a fully capable, complex individual with specific needs. Yes—size adds a few extra risk parameters (fear threshold, vulnerability to pain, owner biases) but it never dictates the future. By understanding the science (maternal care, early life, genetics, health, training), reading the signals early, and advocating smartly, you turn “small dog syndrome” from a myth into an opportunity: a chance to say “small dogs count too—and actually, they hold the key to some of the best, most fun, most rewarding dog-human partnerships.”

Let’s shift the conversation: small dogs deserve big support.

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post on 👇

How To Tackle Jumping Up

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… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S 

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9 Ways To Turn Your Dog Into A Super Learner

How to Create a Dog That Loves Learning: By Becoming A Well Prepared Owner

Training your dog doesn’t have to be a chore. With a little patience, consistency, and a whole lot of positivity, you can turn learning into a fun and rewarding experience for both you and your canine companion. Here’s 9 ways in which you can create a dog that loves learning, in a relaxed and enjoyable way.

1. Start with Easy Wins

Begin with simple commands even before you start to train the obvious stuff like “sit” or “down” in a quiet environment. You can begin to reward your dog for looking up at the sound of his name OR for “Checking In” doing it so often that it becomes a reflex is a great starting point which. These early successes build your dog’s confidence and set the stage for more complex training. A great example of an easy win is when we try and get our dogs to engage with enrichment activities – shy nervous or easily frustrated dogs and puppies might not actually know what to do to begin with so you can start by point or showing the dog how to do something and mark and reward the moment their nose touches a treat (a simple rolled up tea towel with treats inside is a wonderful easy win). See my previous post about Every Day Enrichment Ideas Here.

2. Embrace Imperfection

Perfection isn’t the goal—progress is. Celebrate small victories and understand that mistakes are part of the learning process. Your dog’s journey is about improvement, not flawlessness. The aim of the game is to get the behaviours you want loosely then you have plenty of time to polish anything up over time and as the dog matures or becomes more engaged with the whole process of training. Even if that means getting a little creative with how you train something (because there are a plethora of ways to train one thing) it’s mostly about confidence building for you both as a team and whether or not you can go away and actually get a little bit done often because imperfect consistency is better than no training at all.

If you really find yourself hitting a brick wall with a certain behaviour don’t hesitate to get in contact or at the very least send your trainer a video of you doing the behaviour and we can tell you what aspect of your training mechanics or reward delivery might need a little more practice.Contact me here 😅

3. Train Frequently, Seize Every Opportunity

Incorporate training into daily routines. Whether it’s during walks, meal times, or play sessions, use these moments to reinforce commands and behaviors. A great example of this is to get into the habit of naming everything that is significant on your walk- because if you always say a certain word or give a specific hand gesture at the same points on your walk the dog will get into the habit of predicting your behaviour and over time start to look as though “they trained themselves” when actually what is more likely is that you were predictable with your body language and words when out and about with your dog.

For example ; I talk in sound bites to my dogs and give slightly over exaggerated arm signals so that I can see they’ve seen them – it’s all communication after.

Need to cross the road – always say “Wait” at every curb then “Cross” with an outstretched arm signal that acts not only as the “release cue” as it were it also tells my dog what direction we are going.

Need the dog to get up into a crate in the car? I get into the habit of getting dogs to jump “up up” onto and into things on my way as well as “off” in the opposite direction for when I need them to then generalise that to getting “up up” into the car with a tossed treat luring them into the crate to begin with and again when they need to get out a flat palm to ask to “wait” and then “off” when they need to get themselves out.

Remember to think about does this behaviour look like something they already know? If so adapt a previous behaviour so you don’t have to work so hard.

Got a dog that loves to sit as a default behaviour ? use this as the cue to prevent jumping up instead of creating a new cue work with the one you already have 👍

4. Use Hand Signals First

We are verbal creatures and live to add words to everything (see previous point😅) yet dogs however, are highly visual learners. Start with hand signals before adding verbal cues. This approach helps your dog associate actions with commands more easily. This way we don’t even need to worry so much about what words we are using half of the time but I’d my body language looks similar to something they’ve done before it is likely I can tell a Spanish dog to sit by simply asking what hand signal they use instead. I mean let’s be honest it must all sound like gobbledygook to our dogs in the beginning anyway.

5. Shape Behavior Gradually

Instead of expecting your dog to perform a complex behavior immediately, break it down into smaller steps. Reward each step toward the desired behavior to encourage progress. For example maybe your dog is struggling with retrieving something or they drop the toy to early. Start with the end result train a dog

1- a chin rest (get the dog used to having your hand under their shin for longer and longer amounts of time)

2- get the dog to hold a toy with a chin rest

3- get the dog to pick up the toy and then release it like previously mentioned

4- start to toss that toy slightly further away

5- add distance to the tossed toy etc etc

And voila you have back chained (reverse engineered as it were) a behaviour by breaking it down into 5 steps instead of wondering why your dog goes to get the toy but drops it before they come all the way back – start closer and work out.

6. Introduce a Marker Cue

A marker cue like “good,” “yep,” or a clicker helps your dog understand exactly what behavior is being rewarded. This clarity speeds up the learning process. But the caveats I want to add here is that you must classically condition your cues to begin with. There’s no pint in saying yep good or click if they have no perceived meaning yet – much like telling your dog “no” if there is no association with it yet. This just means they must hear the word and a reward appears for many many repetitions much like your dog starts to associate their name with your attention or a treat for example. You do it so much that it becomes a reflex. Go and call your dog – if they don’t immediately price their ears up or look up chances are you haven’t done enough classical conditioning yet. Then with good timing your dog can hear your cue “yep” or “good” “click” and know that that means a reward is coming.

7. Add Verbal Cues Later

I know I just told you to make everything because ….why not but you actually NEED to worry about the exact words you use initially. If it’s a new behaviour you might have noticed that there are a couple of steps you need to do first anyway to be sure the dog knows what you’re asking and then when they start to pre-empt a kite or a hand signal you can start to add a word. Focus on the behavior, and introduce verbal cues once your dog consistently performs the action is actually the most efficient way to train. But for the smarty pants dogs who have a learned history with training then I speed it up and do hand signals and naming at almost the same time- but that’s just me.

8. Practice the Mechanics of Training

Don’t run before you can walk. A lot of mishaps or odd foibles that your dog does are usually because your training “mechanics” are a bit clunky. So taking a little time to master the foundations of your own muscle memory / how you lure your dog into behaviours/ what your own body language looks like to your dog/ how will I deliver the reward all effects whether or not your dog gets what you are asking. So for example if you’ve never taught loose lead behaviours before definitely don’t start with the lead attached- go home and practiced the techniques shown to you in the garden with the lead OFF before you add in a layer of complexity with the lead inevitably brings, then you need to add in your marker word and treat delivery in the go – all things that need to be practiced individually BEFORE you take it out into the real world where you then have to navigate – other people, distractions, terrains. Etc etc, practicing in this way builds your confidence and ensures you’re prepared for various situations when you need to be in full control of your dog as well.

9. Phase Out Lures Gradually

If you’re using treats or toys to guide your dog’s behavior, slowly reduce their use over time. This helps your dog learn to respond to cues without relying on external rewards. That again comes with a BIG CAVEAT I am never in a massive hurry to phase out lures for young shy or nervous dogs because they need as much repetition and confidence building as possible but as that confidence and reliability grows or in some cases matures, we can start to phase out treats for less valuable reward such as touch, play or praise- eg; quickly go from rewarding every successful attempt of a behaviour to every other / to every third to just once or twice a walk. But I’m never without some form of reward regardless of how long a dog has learned something for because the world is unpredictable and I cant expect my dog to be perfect in all scenarios so having some “emergency rewards” never goes a miss.

By following these steps, you can foster a positive learning environment that strengthens the bond between you and your dog. Remember, the key is consistency, patience, and making learning enjoyable for both of you. Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer 🐶👍 S

I’d you enjoyed this post please check out my previous post on Knowing how long to leave your dog home alone x

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Help I Think My Dog Is Resource Guarding

👉Does your dog show signs of guarding sometimes known as Resource Guarding (anything of high value clothes toys food sofa people or space)- it could just be play OR it could be a slippery slope into defensive growling and eventually a bite (the fear of having its coveted thing taken away at all costs)

👉So here’s my “QUICK ADVICE” for someone who’s worried enough to ask for help but hasn’t been assessed by a dog behaviourist yet – Disclaimer – your scenario might not be as bad as you think but always er on the side of caution especially where growling & biting & CHILDREN are concerned

This is my online response so I’m trying to generalise massively for someone I don’t know but can make SOME assumptions based upon my own experience …….here goes👇👇(this was for a 8 month old goldendoodle pup)

⭐️Potential Resource Guarding⭐️

🛑First port of call is to manage your dogs triggers – ie: make every attempt to prevent him from practicing the unwanted behaviour so if you know he grabs socks and books and anything that rolls on the floor (my dog guarded a piece of pasta once 😅) you need to make the things inaccessible – I don’t have anything loose downstairs and those things are upstairs behind a baby gate

🛑You need to set your puppy up to not fail as this breed of dog is highly sensitive to guarding behaviour as they enjoy having things in their mouth (golden retrievers actually have a high incendence of guarding behaviour issues) and it’s OUR response to the guarding that starts to create the problem
If we quickly go to grab and manhandle a puppy with something in its mouth it will probably do one of two things:

1- Get defensive because he always gets manhandled or scolded therefore growling and running away will become the default- if this happens too much and pressure is constantly put on the pup and growls are not listened too it will become a bite and then habitually after many repetitions biting = normal for this dog

2- Or it becomes a game of “keep away” depending on the behaviour presented – to your dog it’s much more fun to get so and so to chase them around so he’s much more likely to steal that thing again next time because ANY attention is good attention for puppies sometimes

Tan coloured Staffordshire bull terrier plays tug

🛑So after management of the environment start “Yes” training – think of this as the first building block to create a new behaviour chain for your dog -do something completely different in a different room and if your dog knows “What’s This” you are already onto a winner too.


💚What you are trying to do is create distance between yourself and the guarded item – it’s the close proximity that’s is causing true resource guarding – there will be a distance at which you see the body language of your dog go stiff and growling starts – this is your boundary when you see it move away quickly to diffuse the situation- keep your body language light and airy even if you don’t feel it & reassure them by actually following through each time and moving away.

👉Say puppy “ What’s this” and go into another room and start putting HIGH value treats on the floor or scatter feed in the garden and say “Yes” every time they “find” a treat but make sure “What’s this” and following you into the other room is ALWAYS followed by this high value game to begin with as your pup is learning something very difficult (undoing the previous learned behaviours) whilst in the other room a secondary person can retrieve the guarded item and once it’s picked up have a puppy party so that coming to you = treats on the floor and eventually a game of tug for example – you can start to train a solid – DROP once you’ve established this first thing (getting two of the same high value things like two squeaky balls for example) and timing your “Yes” = treat the moment the first item leaves their mouth – This is Step 2 in your new behaviour chain.

👉Step 3 is training a solid “Drop”- To encourage the drop don’t put your hand in their mouth or grab (this triggers resource guarders) WAIT for the moment THEY drop and mark “Yes” and treat after
You can make a massive fuss of the second item as puppies get FOMO and will drop to play with whatever you have – keep it up until the DROP (you don’t even need to say drop to begin with just pairing the word “YES” with a treat becomes the predictor.

👉Yes Training is basically clicker training with your voice – a consistent word in the place where you would “Click” this is what I mean by start “Yes” training- I mention how to do this in the link below to my previous blog post👇

My Blog Post Mentions Yes Training Here

‼️Notes: On Food Bowl Guarding ‼️

🔴If you are finding that your dog has begun guarding snarling showing stiff body language and eating faster in the presence of other people or your other pets – PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT to force your dog to give you their bowl mid meal (I know SOME uneducated dog trainers on the internet will tell you that you NEED to do this) but you DONT need to do this AT ALL – it’s usually BECAUSE there is this forced bowl retrieval mid meal that resource guarding has started. to occur.

🔴What your dog actually needs is to feel SAFE & SECURE so he doesn’t have to resort to getting tense and fearful every time someone comes close so in the first instance 👉 create a separate place where only the dog is allowed to eat (this could be behind a baby gate or in a separate room and do not bother your dog until they have finished – just this for several days to give your dog more confidence – then do the steps previously mentioned above to create a willing response to coming away from the food bowl naturally.

Brown & Tan Kelpie chews a soft toy

👉Then you can get a second person to pick up the bowl whilst your dog is being rewarded for an alternative thing in a separate room

👉This step might be easier said than done as I had a very smart spaniel who would only come away from the bowl for a VERY HIGH reward (I used chorizo and also I found he was only doing this behaviour INSIDE the house in confined spaces) so I found it useful to train an “outside” straight after eating to encourage a game outside in the garden to create natural distance from the bowl with a game of catch ALWAYS after his meal (nothing to strenuous I didn’t want him getting bloat) but he loved catching or “counting kibbles” or “finding chorizo” in the garden – these were all little tricks I could use if I ever failed at previous management steps and he got a tea towel for example – I could get him to at least come outside and swap for a game of ball instead of the object or “Swap” for the “catching kibble” 😅

❤️All of these things then become your toolkit for dealing with and managing a resource guarder humanely and without fear of escalation whilst you wait for behaviourist to assess the severity of your dogs guarding behaviour

👍My dog lived a happy 7 years in a home with three other dogs as quite a severe food & toy guarder because we managed him well helped him become more confident with his choices by doing fun confidence building training games. By having these little training protocols up our sleeves whenever the proverbial s**t got real made us much less nervous about managing him & made us realise it was our fault for not managing him properly or it was us who needed to dial down our response to the “stealing or guarding behaviour” as it’s was this overreaction that was fuelling the “ANY attention is good attention aspect of his behaviour. You learn quickly when you have a dog steal your mobile phone or the remote because you left it unattended on the sofa🙈🙈)

I hope this article helps someone with pointers and tips on how to be a more confident owner of a dog with resource guarding behaviour- because this is just a small aspect of their personality the other 75 percent is a loving happy active smart fun dog who just needs to be understood to thrive ❤️🐕❤️🐕

For an in depth look at the issues and training protocol I recommend this book 📕

Mine – The Practical Guide To Resource Guarding by Jean Donaldson

Sara @ About Town Pet Care🐶

Ps – if this has helped you and you would like further help please contact me here👇

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