Frustration in adolescent dogs

Adolescence Isn’t Disobedience: Understanding the 7-Month-Old Spaniel Brain

I recently responded to a post about a 7-month-old Cocker Spaniel who was “pulling like a train” and they were asking for a harness that “stops pulling”. Other phrases that kept coming up were ones I hear all the time:

“He’s suddenly forgotten everything.”
“His attention span is like a gnat’s.”
“He’s pushing boundaries and meeting force with force.”

Welcome to canine adolescence.

This phase can feel like all your hard work has unravelled overnight, but what you’re seeing isn’t stubbornness, dominance, or your dog “being naughty”. It’s biology.

The Teenage Dog Brain (or: Why Your Dog Can’t Put the Brakes On)

A 7-month-old dog is roughly equivalent to a 14-year-old human teenager.

Their body is developing rapidly, hormones are surging, and crucially — their frontal cortex hasn’t caught up yet.

The frontal cortex is the part of the brain responsible for:

  • Impulse control
  • Emotional regulation
  • Decision-making
  • The ability to pause and think before acting

In dogs, this area doesn’t fully mature until around 18 months of age.

So when we expect a teenage dog to “just make better choices”, we’re asking them to use a part of the brain that quite literally isn’t finished yet.

Be the Swan 🦢 (Even When You’re Screaming Inside)

I often tell clients to be like a swan.

On the surface: calm, graceful, unbothered.
Underneath: paddling like mad, thinking “for goodness sake”, and feeling frustrated.

Feeling frustration is normal. It’s human. It’s part of our emotional repertoire.

But dogs don’t need us to win against them — they need us to be smarter than their nervous system.

Meeting force with force during adolescence often escalates behaviour, because the dog simply doesn’t have the neurological capacity to regulate themselves yet.

What Adolescent Stress Actually Looks Like

During this phase, dogs become more easily frustrated, and stress shows up in ways that often confuse owners.

You might see:

  • Scratching in the middle of play
  • Yawning when nothing seems tiring
  • Shaking off when they’re not wet
  • Avoiding things they were previously fine with
  • Lunging or barking at familiar sights
  • Sudden “out of context” behaviours

These are stress displacement behaviours — signs that the dog’s nervous system is struggling to cope.

When pressure continues, dogs may opt for space-increasing behaviours, such as:

  • Pawing at you to make you stop
  • Mouthing or grabbing clothing
  • Snapping to create distance

This isn’t aggression — it’s communication.

Redirect, Don’t Confront

Instead of challenging the behaviour head-on, I prefer redirection using cues the dog already understands well.

One of my favourites is:

“What’s this?”

It taps into curiosity and makes the dog come towards you to see what they’re missing out on.

If you can teach:

  • “Up up” → you can teach “Off”
  • “Come and see” → instead of pushing away

Always ask yourself:

What is the opposite of the behaviour I don’t want?

Examples:

  • Jumping up → a solid sit on a mat
  • Mouthing → stopping and picking up a toy
  • Recall issues → working very close for a long time to build value in staying with you

Distance is earned. Adolescents need to relearn proximity.

Puberty = Instincts Switching On

Puberty typically hits between 7–9 months, and this is when a dog’s breed-specific behaviours really start to emerge.

Under pressure or frustration, dogs revert to what they were selectively bred to do.

For example:

  • Spaniels like to hold and possess
  • Retrievers like to carry things in their mouths
  • Guardian breeds may grab and pull down

These behaviours often increase when:

  • The dog is frustrated
  • The dog doesn’t know what’s being asked
  • Training lacks clarity
  • Tasks change too quickly

Dogs don’t default to calm thinking under stress — they default to instinct.

Why Frustration Tips Over So Fast (Especially on Lead)

Frustration builds pressure in the nervous system, and pressure needs an outlet.

This is why:

  • Dogs are often more reactive on lead than off
  • Tension on the lead escalates behaviour
  • Lack of movement increases emotional overflow

Under pressure, behaviour can escalate quickly into:

  • Barking
  • Lunging
  • Snapping

Not because the dog is “bad”, but because their coping capacity has been exceeded.

A Note on Harness Battles

If getting equipment on and off has become a battle, you have two options:

1. Change the Equipment

Some dogs struggle with harnesses that go over the head.
A step-in or Velcro harness can remove that stress entirely.

2. Go Back a Step

Slow the whole process down.

  • Break it into smaller steps
  • Reinforce calm behaviour
  • Reduce the “faff”

Sometimes removing the equipment altogether for a short reset helps, because the dog has learned to predict:

“Something uncomfortable or stressful is about to happen.”

If in doubt:

  • Change the cue
  • Change the equipment
  • Start again from scratch

There is no failure in resetting — only information.

The Takeaway

Adolescence isn’t a training problem.
It’s a developmental phase.

Your dog isn’t giving you a hard time — they’re having a hard time.

With clarity, patience, and an understanding of what’s happening inside that teenage brain, this phase doesn’t have to be something you “get through”.

It can be something you guide them through — calmly, consistently, and with empathy.

And yes… sometimes while paddling furiously under the surface 🦢

If you appreciated this post feel free to check out my previous post Help My Puppy Won’t Settle At Night here👈

Before you go you might want to check out my 12 Days Of Woofmas by adding your email to my newsletter sign up page Here to get access to 12 days of canine science right into your inbox there will also be 12 videos to accompany those emails on a private section of this website as well as daily tasks to complete via email – so if you want to keep yourself busy over the Christmas period feel free to sign up now 👍

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer and behaviourist.

S x

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Help! My New Puppy Won’t Settle at Night

A gentle, gradual guide to peaceful nights in the first few weeks home

Bringing a new puppy home is magical… and exhausting. One of the most common worries I hear from new puppy parents is:

“My puppy just won’t settle at night. Are we setting her up to never be able to sleep alone?”

Take a breath — the answer is no.
In fact, a gradual, methodical transition is the very thing that prevents separation-related problems later on.

Your puppy has just come from sleeping in a pile of warm littermates. Suddenly she’s in a new home, new smells, new routines, and without her usual nighttime company. Reassurance in these early weeks isn’t “spoiling” — it’s meeting a biological need for safety.

Let’s walk through a gentle, practical plan that helps your puppy settle confidently at night, whether you’re using a crate or a playpen.

Step One: Choose Where You Want Your Puppy to Sleep Long-Term

Before you start, decide what your end goal is. Do you want your dog to sleep:

  • In a crate beside your bed?
  • In a crate or pen downstairs?
  • In a specific room like the kitchen or living room?

There’s no wrong answer — choose the setup you can maintain long-term.

Tip: Most people find starting with the crate beside the bed much easier. You’re close enough for quick reassurance without allowing rehearsals of prolonged crying.

Option 1: Start Beside the Bed (My Recommended Option)

Begin with the crate or pen right next to the bed, within arm’s reach. Your presence helps your puppy regulate her emotions and settle back to sleep after tiny wobbles.

Week-by-week progression:

Week 1 — Right at your bedside
Your hand can reach the crate easily. Reassure with a quiet word or a gentle touch if needed.

Week 2 — End of the bed
Move the crate every 3 days or so, keeping your puppy successful and calm.

Week 3 — Outside the bedroom door → Hallway → Bottom of the stairs
Small, steady changes. No big jumps.

Week 4 — Final sleeping spot (e.g., living room or kitchen)
You may need to sleep on the sofa for a night or two depending on your puppy’s confidence. Expect to get up for toilet trips and brief reassurance — totally normal.

Option 2: Start Where the Crate Will Live (Downstairs)

If you prefer to begin downstairs, place the crate in the room you intend to use long-term — kitchen or living room usually works best.

For the first few nights, sleep on the sofa nearby.
As your puppy settles more easily, gradually increase the distance between you and the crate until you’re no longer needed in the room.

This mirrors the same progression as Option 1, just starting in a different location.

Important Caveats (The Things People Forget!)

1. Scoop-and-go is absolutely fine

In the early days, if your puppy wakes and you need to take her out now, pick her up and go quickly to avoid accidents. You’re not making a habit that will last forever — you’re preventing one.

2. The crate or pen must be big enough

Your puppy needs two zones:

  • A cosy sleep area
  • An area they could move to if they needed to toilet

Puppies genuinely don’t want to soil where they sleep. If the space is too small, crying or accidents increase.

3. Set your puppy up for sleep success

Before bedtime, make sure she has:

  • Been out to toilet
  • Played a short game (nothing too exciting!)
  • Had her final meal or snack

A tired belly and brain settle best.

4. Phase out puppy pads sooner rather than later

Pads often encourage puppies to toilet wherever they smell previous pee spots.
If you use them temporarily, clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove ammonia scents — this prevents “Oh, I peed here before!” repeat performances.

Reassurance Is Not a Bad Habit — It’s Attachment Building

Your puppy is not manipulating you. She’s not being “naughty.”
She’s simply calling out for the family she knows is somewhere in the house.

Call-and-response crying is normal in the first weeks.

What you’re watching for is intensity:

  • A few minutes of fussing? Normal.
  • More than 20 minutes with rising distress? She needs help.

After a toilet check, offer calm reassurance — a hand on the crate, sitting nearby for a moment, a quiet voice. Once she settles, return to bed.

This is how puppies learn:
“I’m safe. My human comes when I need them. I can go back to sleep.”

That confidence becomes the foundation for healthy independence later.

Want Help With Crate Training?

The full gradual crate-training guide is available in my Black Friday Weekend Webinar Bundle which I’ve extended until midnight tonight for those who want a step by step guide on not only crate training all things home alone training as well as three of my other lost popular webinar topics :

Separation Anxiety Survival Guide

Let’s Learn Loose Lead (prevent pulling)

Restart Recall & Creating A FOMO Recall

Tiny Dog Behaviour – Debunking The Little Dog Syndrome Myth

Plus step by step guides for both crate training and creating an off switch by training a Settle In Real Life – if this sounds right up your street then grab it at its current price of £35 instead of my normal bundle deal of £70 Book the last minute webinar bundle here 👈


If you need support applying the steps with your puppy , just reach out — that’s what I’m here for.

And if you appreciated this post you might want to check out my previous blog post Don’t rush your rescue dog! Which applies to rehoming young dogs also👍

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer- S x

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Little Dog Syndrome- What Small Breeds Really Need

Small dogs need big personalities for you to “listen” to them.

If you’ve ever heard the phrase “little dog syndrome”, you might picture a tiny dog with big attitude—yapping, bossing other dogs around, maybe even snappy or reactive. It’s a phrase many people toss around with a wink. But as with many catchy sayings, the reality is far more nuanced than it seems.

What the phrase implies

The term suggests that small-breed dogs are inherently more problematic: more yappy, more aggressive, more spoiled. It frames size as the root cause of behaviour problems. But the truth: size alone doesn’t determine behaviour. What does matter is why behaviour issues arise — and how we support small dogs (and their owners) differently.

What the science reveals

  • Research shows that smaller dogs do have higher odds of owner-reported fearfulness and aggression than larger dogs — but size is just one of many factors. For example, one large-scale study found that smaller body size correlated with higher risk of fear and aggression, but the authors emphasised that this is a broad, population-level trend, not a destiny for any individual dog.
  • Another key piece: early life and maternal care matter a lot. Puppies whose dams were less stressed, who gave more consistent licking/nursing and contact, develop into calmer, more resilient adults.
  • Behaviour issues in small dogs are frequently driven by pain or medical issues (for example dental disease, joint problems, airway or spine issues) rather than “just being a small dog with attitude.” When pain is relieved, behaviour often improves.
  • Nutrition and training style matter too: diet can support behaviour improvement (though it isn’t a silver bullet) and training methods that rely on rewards, respect and clear communication outperform punitive methods — especially for smaller dogs.

So what’s really at play?

Here are the bigger drivers behind what gets labelled “small dog syndrome”:

  • Higher vigilance: Many small breeds were bred to alert or watch (rather than herd or guard). That means a lower threshold to respond to stimuli (doorbell, stranger, passer-by).
  • Owner handling biases: Small dogs are easier to pick up, more likely to be carried, less likely to be handled like larger dogs (walked as much, trained as much). This can reduce their confidence and increase fear.
  • Overlooking health issues: Because they’re small, pain or discomfort in the joints, spine, teeth or airway may be overlooked — and an irritable, anxious dog often looks like a behaviour problem.
  • Inadequate training/enrichment: Smaller dogs still need outlets for their breed-instincts, socialisation, movement and mental challenges — these get missed if we think “small = easy.”
  • Environment and management: Running into strangers, dogs or stimuli at high speed without a plan creates stress; small dogs are more vulnerable to feeling “trapped” (less body mass, fewer escape options) so reading early signals matters.

What you can do to advocate for your small dog

1. Read the body language early

Look for the subtle-before-the-problem: lip licks, head turn, freezing, shifting weight, crouching or making the body smaller. These aren’t “cute” — they’re stress signals. Intervene early: give space, create a barrier (your body, a bench), redirect to a positive behaviour (scatter a few treats, hand-target, escort to safe zone).

2. Check health/pain before punishing behaviour

Especially in small breeds, do a “vet audit” when you see a new or changed behaviour: dental examination (crowded jaws are common); joint check (patella, spine/neck, hips); airway/trachea or breathing issues; signs of neuropathic pain (especially in certain breeds). Pain-driven behaviour is teachable — but only after treating the cause.

3. Tailor training to small-dog size & needs

  • Use a well-fitted Y-front or front-clip harness instead of a tight collar (especially for toy or brachycephalic breeds)
  • Teach “station” (mat on the floor or low bench) so your small dog has a safe base
  • Practice “hand-target,” “middle” (dog between your legs), “scatter-sniff” breaks during walks
  • Use short sessions frequently (2–3 mins several times a day) to suit small body/attention spans
  • Build “consent handling” (dog comes to you for grooming/touch rather than you always picking it up) to build resilience and trust

4. Provide enrichment & mental outlets

Small breed owners often think “less space = less need.” But with little dogs especially, enrichment helps reduce reactivity and fear: puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, short high-value walks, nosework, training games, “Look at that” with new people/dogs at distance.

5. Change the narrative: dismissing “small dog = easy”

Educate your network: small dogs can do a lot — we just need to support them right. They deserve the same structured socialisation, and predictable training, and patience. The phrase “small dog syndrome” stops being an excuse and becomes a stepping-stone to doing better.

6. Create safe walks & encounters

Because small dogs are physically closer to obstacles, less body-mass to buffer stress, teach your clients / owners to anticipate:

  • Use visual scanning: what’s ahead? Could another dog/child move towards us quickly?
  • If yes: U-turn early or cross the road, give space.
  • If in doubt keep moving – lead reactivity is often an attempt to create space if we take on the role of manager we can always help the dog out and keep moving- knowing your dogs initial safe distance is important.
  • Practice a “go-to” cue like “find it” then drop a handful of treats behind a parked car or something else in the environment to help to block the oncoming trigger just until the moment has passed.
  • Use a “safe space” or magic mat at dog-friendly cafés or venues so your dog can climb up, feel elevated and choose to stay. Being sure that everyone understands to “ignore” your dog where needed.

Final word

Your little dog isn’t “just small.” It’s a fully capable, complex individual with specific needs. Yes—size adds a few extra risk parameters (fear threshold, vulnerability to pain, owner biases) but it never dictates the future. By understanding the science (maternal care, early life, genetics, health, training), reading the signals early, and advocating smartly, you turn “small dog syndrome” from a myth into an opportunity: a chance to say “small dogs count too—and actually, they hold the key to some of the best, most fun, most rewarding dog-human partnerships.”

Let’s shift the conversation: small dogs deserve big support.

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post on 👇

How To Tackle Jumping Up

BOOK ZOOM WEBINARS HERE

… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S 

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶
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Jumping Up -Why It Happens and How To Tackle A Common Issue

If your once well-behaved puppy suddenly seems to forget everything they’ve learned, you’re not alone. The adolescent phase — usually between 6 to 18 months — can bring a wave of new challenges as your dog’s brain and body mature. Think of it as the teenage phase of their development: hormones, distractions, and big feelings all at once!

One of the most common issues owners face during this stage is jumping up — especially around people. The good news? With management, consistency, and a well-practised alternative behaviour, your dog can absolutely learn better ways to greet.

Why Does It Happen?

Jumping up is natural for dogs. They do it to get attention, greet face-to-face, or release excitement. During adolescence, impulse control dips while energy and social motivation soar — not the best combo! Add in the fact that new people, places, and smells are super stimulating, and it’s easy to see why polite manners can vanish overnight.

Step 1: Manage Before You Train

Use management to prevent unwanted rehearsals of the behaviour. Keep greetings calm and controlled — use a lead or long line, create space, and avoid letting the dog practise jumping.
This isn’t forever! It’s just until your teen pup is emotionally mature enough to handle more stimulation without losing focus.

Step 2: Train an Alternative Behaviour

Start at a distance where your dog can succeed. Practice a calm, incompatible behaviour such as:

  • An automatic sit
  • A “go to mat” or “place” cue
  • A relaxed settle on a bed

Reinforce these generously so they feel just as rewarding as saying hello by jumping.

Step 3: Keep Rewards Low

Always deliver rewards on the floor. This prevents your dog from anticipating treats coming from above — which can encourage more jumping. It is inevitable if everything fun happens at waist height then the dog is much more likely to want to get to the exciting thing more quickly by jumping up as excitement builds so get into the habit of asking your dog to “Find It” on the floor initially.

Step 4: Repetition Builds Reliability

Consistency is everything. It takes around 3–4 weeks for old habits to fade and new ones to stick.
And remember: one excitable jump can set you back a few practice sessions — so think long-term, not instant results.

A great rule of thumb: train 100 reps for the time you’ll need that 101st in real life. Build the muscle memory before you need it.

Step 5: Check the Motivation

Ask yourself:

  • Is my dog overstimulated by people or the environment?
  • Do they know how to switch off?

Try visiting public places to practise simply watching and settling. Start with 5–10 minutes at a distance, then gradually work closer as your dog learns to stay calm.

Final Thoughts

A well-timed “sit” or “what’s this?” is always more effective than shouting “no.” When dogs understand what’s expected, they feel secure — and calm dogs make better choices.

Adolescence can be challenging, but it’s also an opportunity to deepen your bond through patience, practice, and clear communication.

If you’d like to learn more about why adolescent dogs behave this way and how to support them through it, join my Teen Dog Behaviour Webinar on Wednesday nights — dates for the next rotation of webinar topics can be found below👇 🐾

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post on 👇

7 Tips To Help With Loose Lead Training

BOOK ZOOM WEBINARS HERE

… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶

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🦮 Help! My Dog Pulls on the Lead

7 Simple Tips to Get Started with Loose Lead Training

Pulling on the lead is one of the most common frustrations I hear about — and honestly, I get it. No one wants to feel like they’re being dragged down the road by a furry sled team! The good news? Loose lead walking is totally achievable with a few smart tweaks and some patience. Here are seven tips to help you get started.

Tibetan spaniel type tan brown dog pulling to one side with mouth open and tongue out

1️⃣ Rethink Your Walk (and Download My Anatomy of a Walk Graphic)

Before you even clip the lead on, think about how your walks are structured. You can grab my free “Anatomy of a Walk” graphic by signing up for my weekly What’s Up Wednesday Newsletter 👉Newsletter Sign Up Here.

Some dogs focus best after a little movement or a breed-specific activity. Ten to fifteen minutes of sniffing, moving, or playing before training can make a huge difference — especially for dogs with the attention span of a gnat 😅.

I often let dogs have one “free” lap to get out that initial excitement (and take care of business) before we start training. Then we move through:

  • A few easy wins to get momentum going,
  • A new or more challenging exercise,
  • And finally something calm like scatter feeding or a snuffle mat to signal the end of the “work” portion.

You can even practice your loose lead walking on the way back to the car, when your dog’s energy levels are lower — then gradually park a little further away each time.

2️⃣ Practice at Home First

Before you hit the pavement, start in a quiet, distraction-free space. Practice the mechanics of luring, shaping, and capturing the behaviours you want. This helps both you and your dog build muscle memory so it feels natural once you’re outside.

Think of it as rehearsing before opening night — the fewer surprises, the better your performance.

White bull breed with one black ear pulls on a green harness

3️⃣ Work on Your Lead Handling Skills

Loose lead walking is a bit of an art form. It’s not just about the dog — it’s about your timing, lure placement, and lead handling. You’re juggling food, movement, maybe even a clicker… it’s a lot!

Go slow and break it down: practice luring first, then add the lead, then add walking in a straight line. Most loose lead failures happen because we rush stages or because owners give up before new habits stick. Be patient with yourself and your dog — this takes practice.

4️⃣ Jackpot Training: Make the “Right Spot” Rewarding

Instead of relying on the stop-start method (which can be pretty unclear for dogs), create a jackpot zone right by your thigh — that’s the “first position” you want your dog to aim for.

Every time your dog lands in that sweet spot, reward generously. Lots of treats, praise, or quick repetitions. This builds value in the behaviour you want rather than just punishing the pulling.

Adolescent golden retriever pulls to one side

5️⃣ Adapt for You and Your Dog

Not every dog — or human — learns the same way.

  • Got a small dog? Try using a spatula or target stick so you’re not bending over.
  • Disabled or mobility-limited? Focus on slower starts, shorter bursts, and consistent pacing.
  • High-energy or busy dog? Use lots of mini-sessions throughout the day instead of one long session.

Realistic expectations make all the difference between steady progress and frustration — for both ends of the lead!

6️⃣ Fade Out the Food (But Not Too Fast!)

We want to move away from constant food luring, but don’t ditch it before your dog really understands the job. Gradually ask for more — maybe five or ten steps — before rewarding.

For experienced dogs, you can start mixing in hand touches or verbal praise between treat rewards. Young or busy dogs will need more frequent feedback to stay motivated.

Remember: the goal is clarity, not stinginess.

Beige mixed breed dog with pointed ears walks along a burgundy path

7️⃣ Keep It Fun and Consistent

Loose lead walking isn’t learned in a day — it’s built through hundreds of little, positive moments. Keep sessions short, upbeat, and always finish on a win.

If you liked this post, check out my High-Energy Dog Training Series — a three-part guide to shorter, smarter training sessions (you can find parts one, two, and three Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3).

💻 Want to Learn More?

I regularly run Let’s Learn Loose Lead webinars online — Book a weekly webinar here — and also offer 4-week in-person loose lead courses in Plymouth Book lets learn loose lead in person here

If you need extra support, I offer 1-2-1 training and behaviour sessions both locally and online — specialising in separation anxiety and lead reactivity.

🐾 Love from your friendly neighbourhood trainer,
Sara

Book Loose Lead Plymouth Person Course Here
Schedule for upcoming weekly webinars via zoom for About Town Pets
Book Weekly Webinars Here
Get in contact if you would like to work online or in person 👆

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Six Recall Tips For New Dog Owners

From someone who has walked over 30,000 dogs off lead in public😇

Training your dog to come back when called doesn’t have to be stressful or frustrating. With the right approach — a mix of patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement — recall training can become one of the most rewarding parts of your relationship together.

Whether you’re working with a new puppy or an adult dog who’s forgotten what “come” means, these tips will help you build confidence, connection, and reliability… and make your off-lead adventures a whole lot more enjoyable.

1️⃣ Condition Your Recall Cue Until It’s Second Nature

Begin Malibu’s Running through a meadow

Before you even think about dropping the lead, your recall cue (that special word or whistle) needs to be so well-conditioned that your dog responds without thinking.

You want it to feel like a reflex — something your dog does automatically because it’s been so rewarding in the past.

That means thousands of happy, positive repetitions. Play recall games at home, reward generously, and make it fun. Most people stop conditioning too early, but this is where all your future success comes from.

💡 Related reading: 9 Ways to Turn You & Your Dog into Super Learners

2️⃣ Don’t Let Go of the Long Line Too Early

The long line is your best friend in recall training. It keeps your dog safe while giving them a sense of freedom, and it gives you the chance to reward successful recalls without risking a “zoomies” moment.

The biggest mistake I see is people dropping the line too soon — usually because things are going well! Keep it on until your dog’s recall feels reliable and predictable.

It’s not about holding them back; it’s about setting them up to succeed.

3️⃣ Start Small and Build Distance Gradually

Intense tri coloured border collie running at speed across a field

Dreaming of that picture-perfect recall across a wide-open field? It all starts close to home — literally.

I like to begin with recall games within just 6–10 feet of me. Reward every time your dog turns and runs back towards you. Once they’re flying to you with excitement at that distance, then start to build space.

Think of it as climbing a ladder: you can’t skip the lower rungs and expect to stay balanced at the top!

4️⃣ Use the 25% Rule

Here’s a simple guideline I use with all my clients: when your recall success rate is 75% or higher, you’re ready to start testing off lead.

If that rate dips below 75%, gather up the long line again and return to an easier stage. Training progress isn’t about perfection; it’s about building confidence — for both of you.

5️⃣ Practice in Different Environments

Your dog’s recall might be flawless in the garden but vanish the second you step into a park full of smells and squirrels — and that’s completely normal!

Dogs don’t generalise the way we do. So when you change locations, lower the difficulty slightly, make it fun again, and rebuild success in that new setting.

The more variety you build in early, the stronger (and more reliable) your recall will become over time.

6️⃣ Find a “Recall Bestie”

Black and white dog in a black harness runs through long grass with his mouth open

This is one of my favourite tips! Dogs learn a lot simply by watching other dogs.

If you know a dog with brilliant recall, plan some joint walks. When you call both dogs, your friend’s dog will dash straight back — and yours will often follow.

It’s a brilliant example of social learning in action and one of the easiest ways to get more recall “reps” without pressure.

💭 Final Thoughts

Building a great recall isn’t about being the loudest person in the park — it’s about creating such a strong, positive association that your dog wants to come back to you.

Take your time, keep sessions short and upbeat, and celebrate every small success. Each recall builds trust, strengthens communication, and makes your bond even stronger.

Peach close runs whilst loooking to the right with mouth open and orange lead attached to a purple collar

📣 Ready to Take It Further?

🐕 Join me this Wednesday 8th October for my Live Webinar Via Zoom “Restart Recall” at 7pm


We’ll cover practical exercises, common pitfalls, and live demonstrations that you can use straight away with your dog.

Weekly Webinar Schedule Of Topics For The Four Weeks – Use the link below to book👇
BOOK RECALL WEBINAR HERE

🎉 And don’t forget — only 14 days left to book your place on my 5-Week Restart Recall Course here in Plymouth! It’s the perfect opportunity to reset, rebuild, and strengthen your dog’s recall in a fun, supportive environment. Starting Sunday 19th October at 7pm (week one online via zoom – 90 minute webinar) then subsequent 4 weeks will be in person at a secure field in Bickleigh Plymouth at 3pm

Restart Recall Advert Starting Oct 19th at 7pm use the link below to book 5 week course in Plymouth
BOOK HERE FOR RESTART RECALL 5 WEEK COURSE

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – Sara

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9 Ways To Turn Your Dog Into A Super Learner

How to Create a Dog That Loves Learning: By Becoming A Well Prepared Owner

Training your dog doesn’t have to be a chore. With a little patience, consistency, and a whole lot of positivity, you can turn learning into a fun and rewarding experience for both you and your canine companion. Here’s 9 ways in which you can create a dog that loves learning, in a relaxed and enjoyable way.

1. Start with Easy Wins

Begin with simple commands even before you start to train the obvious stuff like “sit” or “down” in a quiet environment. You can begin to reward your dog for looking up at the sound of his name OR for “Checking In” doing it so often that it becomes a reflex is a great starting point which. These early successes build your dog’s confidence and set the stage for more complex training. A great example of an easy win is when we try and get our dogs to engage with enrichment activities – shy nervous or easily frustrated dogs and puppies might not actually know what to do to begin with so you can start by point or showing the dog how to do something and mark and reward the moment their nose touches a treat (a simple rolled up tea towel with treats inside is a wonderful easy win). See my previous post about Every Day Enrichment Ideas Here.

2. Embrace Imperfection

Perfection isn’t the goal—progress is. Celebrate small victories and understand that mistakes are part of the learning process. Your dog’s journey is about improvement, not flawlessness. The aim of the game is to get the behaviours you want loosely then you have plenty of time to polish anything up over time and as the dog matures or becomes more engaged with the whole process of training. Even if that means getting a little creative with how you train something (because there are a plethora of ways to train one thing) it’s mostly about confidence building for you both as a team and whether or not you can go away and actually get a little bit done often because imperfect consistency is better than no training at all.

If you really find yourself hitting a brick wall with a certain behaviour don’t hesitate to get in contact or at the very least send your trainer a video of you doing the behaviour and we can tell you what aspect of your training mechanics or reward delivery might need a little more practice.Contact me here 😅

3. Train Frequently, Seize Every Opportunity

Incorporate training into daily routines. Whether it’s during walks, meal times, or play sessions, use these moments to reinforce commands and behaviors. A great example of this is to get into the habit of naming everything that is significant on your walk- because if you always say a certain word or give a specific hand gesture at the same points on your walk the dog will get into the habit of predicting your behaviour and over time start to look as though “they trained themselves” when actually what is more likely is that you were predictable with your body language and words when out and about with your dog.

For example ; I talk in sound bites to my dogs and give slightly over exaggerated arm signals so that I can see they’ve seen them – it’s all communication after.

Need to cross the road – always say “Wait” at every curb then “Cross” with an outstretched arm signal that acts not only as the “release cue” as it were it also tells my dog what direction we are going.

Need the dog to get up into a crate in the car? I get into the habit of getting dogs to jump “up up” onto and into things on my way as well as “off” in the opposite direction for when I need them to then generalise that to getting “up up” into the car with a tossed treat luring them into the crate to begin with and again when they need to get out a flat palm to ask to “wait” and then “off” when they need to get themselves out.

Remember to think about does this behaviour look like something they already know? If so adapt a previous behaviour so you don’t have to work so hard.

Got a dog that loves to sit as a default behaviour ? use this as the cue to prevent jumping up instead of creating a new cue work with the one you already have 👍

4. Use Hand Signals First

We are verbal creatures and live to add words to everything (see previous point😅) yet dogs however, are highly visual learners. Start with hand signals before adding verbal cues. This approach helps your dog associate actions with commands more easily. This way we don’t even need to worry so much about what words we are using half of the time but I’d my body language looks similar to something they’ve done before it is likely I can tell a Spanish dog to sit by simply asking what hand signal they use instead. I mean let’s be honest it must all sound like gobbledygook to our dogs in the beginning anyway.

5. Shape Behavior Gradually

Instead of expecting your dog to perform a complex behavior immediately, break it down into smaller steps. Reward each step toward the desired behavior to encourage progress. For example maybe your dog is struggling with retrieving something or they drop the toy to early. Start with the end result train a dog

1- a chin rest (get the dog used to having your hand under their shin for longer and longer amounts of time)

2- get the dog to hold a toy with a chin rest

3- get the dog to pick up the toy and then release it like previously mentioned

4- start to toss that toy slightly further away

5- add distance to the tossed toy etc etc

And voila you have back chained (reverse engineered as it were) a behaviour by breaking it down into 5 steps instead of wondering why your dog goes to get the toy but drops it before they come all the way back – start closer and work out.

6. Introduce a Marker Cue

A marker cue like “good,” “yep,” or a clicker helps your dog understand exactly what behavior is being rewarded. This clarity speeds up the learning process. But the caveats I want to add here is that you must classically condition your cues to begin with. There’s no pint in saying yep good or click if they have no perceived meaning yet – much like telling your dog “no” if there is no association with it yet. This just means they must hear the word and a reward appears for many many repetitions much like your dog starts to associate their name with your attention or a treat for example. You do it so much that it becomes a reflex. Go and call your dog – if they don’t immediately price their ears up or look up chances are you haven’t done enough classical conditioning yet. Then with good timing your dog can hear your cue “yep” or “good” “click” and know that that means a reward is coming.

7. Add Verbal Cues Later

I know I just told you to make everything because ….why not but you actually NEED to worry about the exact words you use initially. If it’s a new behaviour you might have noticed that there are a couple of steps you need to do first anyway to be sure the dog knows what you’re asking and then when they start to pre-empt a kite or a hand signal you can start to add a word. Focus on the behavior, and introduce verbal cues once your dog consistently performs the action is actually the most efficient way to train. But for the smarty pants dogs who have a learned history with training then I speed it up and do hand signals and naming at almost the same time- but that’s just me.

8. Practice the Mechanics of Training

Don’t run before you can walk. A lot of mishaps or odd foibles that your dog does are usually because your training “mechanics” are a bit clunky. So taking a little time to master the foundations of your own muscle memory / how you lure your dog into behaviours/ what your own body language looks like to your dog/ how will I deliver the reward all effects whether or not your dog gets what you are asking. So for example if you’ve never taught loose lead behaviours before definitely don’t start with the lead attached- go home and practiced the techniques shown to you in the garden with the lead OFF before you add in a layer of complexity with the lead inevitably brings, then you need to add in your marker word and treat delivery in the go – all things that need to be practiced individually BEFORE you take it out into the real world where you then have to navigate – other people, distractions, terrains. Etc etc, practicing in this way builds your confidence and ensures you’re prepared for various situations when you need to be in full control of your dog as well.

9. Phase Out Lures Gradually

If you’re using treats or toys to guide your dog’s behavior, slowly reduce their use over time. This helps your dog learn to respond to cues without relying on external rewards. That again comes with a BIG CAVEAT I am never in a massive hurry to phase out lures for young shy or nervous dogs because they need as much repetition and confidence building as possible but as that confidence and reliability grows or in some cases matures, we can start to phase out treats for less valuable reward such as touch, play or praise- eg; quickly go from rewarding every successful attempt of a behaviour to every other / to every third to just once or twice a walk. But I’m never without some form of reward regardless of how long a dog has learned something for because the world is unpredictable and I cant expect my dog to be perfect in all scenarios so having some “emergency rewards” never goes a miss.

By following these steps, you can foster a positive learning environment that strengthens the bond between you and your dog. Remember, the key is consistency, patience, and making learning enjoyable for both of you. Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer 🐶👍 S

I’d you enjoyed this post please check out my previous post on Knowing how long to leave your dog home alone x

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How Long Is Too Long? Understanding Your Dog’s Alone Time Needs

A Dog Owner’s Guide to Balancing Alone Time and Welfare

Let’s talk about something we’ve all probably mused over at one time or another as a dog guardian: how long can you really leave your dog home alone?

Technically, the Animal Welfare Act 2006 suggests that after 4 hours assuming that your dog has also just partaken in some form of enforced crating (think overnight in a crate for an average of 8 hours), it would be time to consider your dog’s welfare. Dogs are social creatures, after all, and leaving them for long stretches without interaction isn’t ideal.

In fact, the PDSA is pushing for an additional welfare guideline to consider dogs’ rights to companionship beyond that 4-hour mark. The science is simple: dogs thrive on interaction, and too much alone time can lead to boredom, anxiety, and even stress-related behaviors.

But how long is too long?

A tan faced beagle is lying down on a grey couch

Context Is Key: A Quick Reality Check

For a little perspective, animals in transit on their way to slaughter (yes, grim but relevant) can’t travel for more than 8 hours without a break for food, water, and in some cases, a quick hose down. So if even livestock in transit get regulated breaks, it makes sense to extend similar consideration to our household pets too doesn’t it?

While some dogs—like seniors, puppies, or those with medical conditions—may need more tailored routines, the general rule of thumb is to limit alone time to 4-6 hours, with 8 hours being the absolute maximum in most cases.

What Can You Do?

Here’s where your creativity and resourcefulness come into play. It’s all about breaking up your dog’s day:

  • Enlist Help: Think family, neighbours, friends, or even a professional dog walker.
  • Pop-In Visits: A quick visit to let them out, give them some love, and maybe toss a frisbee can make all the difference.
  • Gradual Training: If your dog isn’t used to being alone, work up to it gradually with the help of a specialist dog trainer/ behaviourist.

Gradual Alone-Time Training: Step-by-Step

If you’re planning on leaving your dog alone while you’re at work, it’s worth setting them up for success:

  1. Start Small: Begin with short periods out of the house, like 2 hours or even less if your dog has ZERO practice (thirty seconds is all I’m asking to begin with).
  2. Use a Camera: Set up a pet cam and see what your dog does when you’re gone. (Spoiler: the camera doesn’t lie.)
  3. Extend Slowly: Once your dog is comfortable, try 3 hours, then 4. Adjust based on what you observe. Even 1 minute / 2 minutes in micro bursts might be where you start.

It’s worth noting that adjusting to a new routine can take time—sometimes up to 6 weeks. So please be patient!

A shirt faces pug lies down in front of a glass door looking out

Setting Your Dog Up for Success

Here’s a handy checklist to help your dog settle into their alone time:

  1. Get Them Moving: Make sure your dog gets a good walk before you leave, but avoid high-energy activities like frisbee or fetch, which can leave them tired but overstimulated.
    • Instead, try scent-based activities like scatter feeding or search games to help them decompress on the way home.
  2. Feed Them: A well-fed dog is much more likely to nap afterwards. I often do this AFTER their walk due to issues regarding bloat (I have two deep chested dogs).
  3. Provide a Cozy Space: Create a comfortable “hotel spot” where they can snooze undisturbed whilst you are out. The more appealing and luxury the better.
  4. Offer Enrichment: Puzzle toys, Kongs, or chew toys can keep them entertained—but introduce these while you’re still home so they don’t associate them with you leaving. Give yourself plenty of time to leave. I use the rule that enrichment for the day goes down 30 minutes before I leave.
  5. Keep the Goodbye Drama-Free: No long farewells. Just calmly set them up and go. By planning these morning routines well we can set our dogs up well.
  6. Lastly – make sure you are actually out of sight and out of their scent range because dogs will settle sooner if they can smell you upstairs or out on the doorstep for example. We need to make it as true to life as possible.
A large Black and Tan shepherd mix breed lies down on the decking with his mouth open whilst wearing a black harness on

The Bottom Line

Your dog doesn’t need 24/7 supervision, but they do deserve thoughtful planning to ensure their welfare. With a mix of routine, training, and enrichment, you can strike a balance that keeps your dog happy and healthy—while giving you peace of mind.

So, whether it’s calling on a neighbour, investing in a pet camera, or adjusting your dog’s routine, small changes can make a big difference and remeber it’s never too late to start home alone training.

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer Sara.

If you enjoyed this post feel free to check out my previous Home Alone Posts Here 👉 How to start home alone training & Five myths about separation anxiety

If you want to work with me then you can email me here Contact Sara at About Town Pets as I now offer online 1-2-1 dog training in person in an 8 miles radius of Plymouth Uk or online for the rest of the UK USA Canada Europe New Zealand and Australia specialising in the following topics;

Separation Related Distress

Lead Reactivity

Adolescent Dogs (6-18 months old)

Tiny Dog Behaviour (dogs under 7kgs)

City Dogs (adapting training for urban environments)

Or BOOK NOW 👉Home Alone Heroes Package

Please be sure to check out my Facebook page for upcoming webinar topics coming soon About Town Pets On Facebook

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