How To Prevent Separation Related Distress In Puppies

I’m going start this post with a really big caveat dogs before we even attempt to help you to prevent SA in your puppy. If your dog has a genetic predisposition (mum had it, previous generations had it or mum was not a very caring or stressed mother) whereby SA or related distress has been passed on then you CANT prevent it you can just start home alone training as soon as you can.

That being said I am always reluctant to label behaviours as true separation anxiety in puppies initially because the vast majority of case in small pups are actually just early learning issues that can completely be trained for given the correct gradual exposure training. Basically most puppies just haven’t learnt to be home alone yet. The issues creep in when perhaps an owner has left it that bit too long before trying to train for the first time. Attending this training during adolescence for example is never a great place to start as they have usually got so many other competing factors around the onset of adolescence BUT like I always say it’s never to late to start. Also this post assumes the dog we are dealing with is under 12 months old and not a rescue dog. Those scenarios will need a slightly different approach. So let’s ASSUME that you have a puppy that is 14 weeks old and you simply haven’t started home alone training yet (maybe you work from home or you sensibly bought your dog on the six weeks school holidays to give yourself more time to train things) Well done you, you’ve come to the right place.

Unfortunately not every case can be prevented but you can absolutely can help mitigate it in puppies that don’t seem to be showing signs of it early on. This training is just as important for your pup as socialisation (seeing and interacting with people, vehicles, travelling other dogs, children, etc) and toilet training in the first few weeks you find yourself in charge of a baby dog.

Just like with socialisation and toilet training, enabling your pup to be confident “home alone” should be done very gradually. I always encourage new owners to set aside ample time to focus on their puppy when they arrive home. It is this part that everyone rushes. I’m talking about planning out the first six weeks of puppy parenthood and managing your life, making sure it revolves around the pup, for AT LEAST that long. It will be a small price to pay for a lifetime of learning to cope and be genuinely ok, when the time comes. All too often I see people get a puppy and a week later expect it to be fine in a crate or a pen like an adult dog – unfortunately this is a slippery slope to creating SA or separation related distress.

Great, you’ve set aside six weeks to hit the ground running, now what?

Firstly you are going to want resources on the following;
Settling at night for the first week or two. Try my blog post on how to start doing this here 👉Surviving The First 7 Days Of New Puppy Ownership & Beyond


Gradually popping puppy in a pen or crate next to your bed to start and being available to the pup for reassurance (at arms length) all the time when you need them to settle. I put an arm on the crate and stay quite. Allow them ample time to go out to the toilet and to settle again near you. Always allow pup to have the maximum amount of sleep they can in those first few weeks (pups need ALOT of sleep in the beginning).

Then move said pen every third day or so (end of the room/ outside the room / bottom of the stairs etc), to gradual lay allow your pup TIME to adjust with larger distances away from you.


Then you can work on “micro absences” during your normal day (30 seconds /a minute) of little absences away from you whilst you go to the toilet and to the shower for example) building all of this independence up making sure the pup is happy with your exits and returns. Keep theses sessions short and calm , continuing to build up.


Don’t rush crate/pen training and leave pups to cry it out, this can quickly cause your pup to form an unwanted association with the crate – get resources on gradual crate training or pen training, to help you out. My crate training protocol is available if you access my webinar linked below👇

BACK SOON.

👇👇🚨Access My Webinar Here🚨👇👇

Get my crate training protocol when you buy my Separation Anxiety Survival Guide Webinar Here


Next up, expect to get a dog sitter in for comfort breaks if you have to be gone for longer than your pup can cope with in the first 6-8 weeks and even longer because toilet training and frustration are also causes of building a negative association with the crate due to not having enough space to turn around inside, should they need to relieve themselves. Some dogs can get very stressed if they soil near their beds. (I have had dogs consume poop for this very reason , in the past). Give them enough space to move and grow. I often advise you get a crate double the size you were initially aiming for, for this reason. Also Be mindful of the fact that if your pup is crated at night make sure they are not also being left in crate for long periods during the day. I have heard this line very very often “puppy can sleep in his crate upstairs for 7-8 hours no problem but when we leave to got out in the middle of the day he will not settle. That’s because puppy needs to stretch his legs and also we’ve changed the context by moving him downstairs where the house is busier and there is more light so he will naturally be more awake.

You will then proceed to train your pup using my “Home Alone Training” in small increments swapping out the settle on a mat for settling in a crate or behind a babygate with plenty to do. 👉It’s never too early/late to start home alone training is the link to follow for help with starting home alone training.

Hopefully this has helped you to see what is required and in what order you can start to train your pup be happy being home alone.

If you enjoyed this post please check out my previous three part blog series on Training High Energy Dogs here.

If you want access to my blog posts first before anyone else consider signing up to the newsletter here and receive a free Dog Behaviourist’s Guide called “Why’s my dog doing that?” Below👇

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Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer Sara. X

Ps if you would like to work with me in person or online please feel free to contact me here Contact Sara Here

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Group Classes vs Private Training: What’s Best for Your Dog?

As a dog trainer of 14 years, I’ve worked with hundreds of dogs and walked over 5,000. During that time, I’ve taught everything from puppy classes and adolescent dog classes to pet Gundog training, recall classes, scentwork, and behaviour packages for more complex issues such as reactivity and separation anxiety.

One of the most common questions I get asked is:

“Should I choose group classes or private training for my dog?”

The truth is, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer.

The best option isn’t necessarily the most expensive, the most popular, or the one your friend’s dog attended. The best option is the one that matches your dog’s temperament, age, learning style, confidence level, and the specific issue you’re trying to address.

Which Dogs Thrive in Group Classes?

Group classes are fantastic for dogs that are generally comfortable around other dogs and people, and for owners who want to build skills in a structured environment.

Puppies often benefit enormously from well-run classes. Contrary to popular belief, puppy classes aren’t just about teaching sit, down, and stay. They’re an opportunity to teach puppies how to settle around other dogs, work alongside distractions, build confidence, and learn valuable life skills during an important developmental period.

Adolescent dogs can also thrive in group settings, particularly when learning skills such as:

  • Recall
  • Loose lead walking
  • Impulse control
  • Pet Gundog skills
  • Scentwork

One of the biggest advantages of group classes is that dogs learn to focus and work around real-life distractions. Owners also benefit from seeing how different dogs learn, realising that they’re not alone in their struggles, and learning from other handlers’ experiences.

I’ve found that many owners underestimate just how valuable that community aspect can be. A problem shared is often a problem halved.

When Private Training Is the Better Choice

Private training comes into its own when a dog needs a more individual approach.

I regularly recommend one-to-one training for:

  • Lead reactive dogs
  • Frustrated greeters
  • Nervous rescue dogs
  • Separation anxiety cases
  • Dogs struggling with fear or confidence
  • Dogs who become overwhelmed in group environments

For these dogs, putting them straight into a busy class can sometimes make things harder rather than easier.

Take a nervous overseas rescue dog, for example. If they’re already worried about traffic, unfamiliar people, and new environments, asking them to cope with several unfamiliar dogs in an enclosed training hall may simply be too much.

Instead, I prefer to build confidence gradually. We might start at home, progress to outdoor training, introduce calm dogs individually, and eventually work towards joining a group when the dog is ready.

The goal is not to avoid challenges forever. The goal is to introduce challenges at a level where the dog can still learn.

Why More Socialisation Isn’t Always the Answer

One of the biggest myths I hear is:

“My dog just needs more socialisation.”

Not necessarily.

Many dogs don’t need more exposure. They need better exposure.

A reactive dog doesn’t usually benefit from being thrown into situations they can’t cope with. Equally, a shy puppy doesn’t necessarily need to be surrounded by lots of unfamiliar dogs.

Instead, dogs often need gradual exposure that builds confidence and positive associations.

That might mean:

  • Watching other dogs from a comfortable distance
  • Learning calm behaviours around triggers
  • Meeting dogs in short, structured interactions
  • Slowly increasing difficulty over time

Too much exposure too soon can actually set training back.

A Real-Life Example: The Shy Puppy

I often see shy puppies start class and spend the first few weeks wanting very little to do with the activities.

Some won’t take food. Some won’t approach equipment. Some simply want to observe.

That’s perfectly fine.

Rather than forcing participation, we adapt.

I may place them further away from the group, use visual barriers to create more space, or break behaviours down into much smaller steps.

For example, if the class is learning to place two paws on a training platform, confident puppies may be doing the full exercise quickly.

A nervous puppy may be rewarded for:

  • Looking at the platform
  • Moving towards it
  • Touching it
  • Placing one paw on it
  • Then eventually placing two paws on it

What often happens is remarkable.

By week six, many of these puppies are participating willingly and looking forward to class.

That’s what true confidence-building looks like.

Can Reactive Dogs Ever Join Group Classes?

Absolutely.

But timing matters.

Many of my reactive dog clients begin with private training where we work on skills, confidence, handling techniques, and emotional responses to triggers.

Once both dog and owner have built confidence, they may progress into controlled social training sessions where they can practise around other dogs at appropriate distances.

This acts as a bridge between structured training and real-world situations.

The goal isn’t necessarily for every dog to become highly social.

For some dogs, success simply means being able to walk past another dog calmly and continue with their day.

That’s still a huge achievement.

What About Separation Anxiety?

Separation anxiety is one area where private training is usually essential.

The actual training needs to happen at home because that’s where the problem occurs.

That said, owners often benefit from education, support, and guidance, whether that’s through online support, behaviour consultations, or tailored training plans.

Home-alone training can feel incredibly isolating for owners, so having professional support can make a significant difference.

Which Option Gives Better Value for Money?

Group classes are often the most cost-effective option when learning specific skills.

You can learn:

  • Recall
  • Loose lead walking
  • Impulse control
  • Pet Gundog foundations
  • Scentwork

for a fraction of the cost of private training.

Private training, however, offers something different.

It allows us to focus entirely on your dog, your home environment, your handling skills, your routines, and your specific challenges.

If your dog struggles with reactivity, fear, or separation anxiety, a tailored approach is often the most efficient route forward.

The only time I feel people truly waste money is when they choose a training format that doesn’t suit their dog’s needs or when they don’t practise what they’ve learned between sessions.

The Biggest Factor in Success

After 14 years of training dogs, I can confidently say that success has less to do with whether you choose group classes or private training and more to do with what happens between sessions.

The most successful owners tend to:

  • Be consistent
  • Practise regularly
  • Have support from family members
  • Adjust expectations according to their dog’s age and development
  • Focus on gradual progress rather than quick fixes

The least successful owners are often those looking for instant results.

Training takes time.

Puppies have short attention spans.

Teenage dogs go through hormonal changes.

Behaviour issues require repetition and careful progression.

Fifteen minutes of quality training is often more valuable than an hour of struggling in the wrong environment.

My Honest Answer

If you want to learn specific skills, build confidence around other dogs, and get excellent value for money, group classes are often a fantastic choice.

If your dog has more complex challenges, struggles around other dogs, needs a highly individual approach, or requires behaviour modification, private training is usually the better option.

But most importantly:

Choose the training environment that suits your dog, not somebody else’s.

Three Things I’d Like Every Owner to Remember

1. Choose training based on your dog’s needs

Consider their temperament, age, confidence level, and previous experiences before deciding what environment will help them succeed.

2. Success is gradual

Don’t compare your dog to others.

Every dog has different genetics, experiences, and challenges. Progress isn’t measured by speed. It’s measured by improvement.

3. Confidence and resilience matter

If your dog is coping better than they were before, learning new skills, and gaining confidence along the way, that’s success.

Training isn’t about getting there as quickly as possible.

It’s about helping the dog in front of you become the best version of themselves.

If this post was helpful you might want to check out what I have to offer in person for those in the Plymouth or surrounding areas – here What’s On At About Town Pets

For more informative friendly posts check out my previous blog post on How to socialise your puppy properly and what that really means 🐕

If you want to be the first to read these posts and find out about what’s coming up in person or online consider adding yourself to my newsletter here and receive my Rule Of 5 Training Resource Rule Of Five Sign Up👈

Speak soon S.x

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How To Socialise Your Puppy & Understanding What Socialisation Really Means

When people hear the words “puppy socialisation”, the image that often comes to mind is a room full of puppies running around playing until their hearts are content.

Or perhaps taking your puppy everywhere possible so they can experience everything as soon as possible.

And while those things can sometimes play a small role in socialisation, they are only a tiny piece of the bigger picture.

In fact, when socialisation is misunderstood it can actually create the very behaviour problems we are trying to prevent.

So let’s talk about what puppy socialisation actually means, and how to approach it in a way that truly sets your puppy up for long-term success.

The Socialisation Window (And Why People Rush It)

There is some truth behind the idea that early exposure is important.

Puppies have a developmental period often referred to as the “socialisation window”, which runs roughly until 16–20 weeks of age.

During this time the brain is particularly flexible and receptive to new experiences.

After this stage the brain becomes a little less adaptable, meaning new experiences may require more gradual introductions.

However, this does not mean you must rush and expose your puppy to absolutely everything all at once.

In fact, doing so can overwhelm many puppies.

Socialisation isn’t about quantity of experiences.

It’s about quality of experiences.

Why “Let Them Play With Every Dog” Isn’t Always Helpful

Another common belief is that puppies should meet and play with as many other dogs as possible.

But if we simply allow puppies to run freely with any dog they meet, a few things can happen.

Some puppies learn that every dog they see means playtime, which can lead to frustration and reactivity later when they are on lead.

Others may be bullied by larger or more confident dogs, while some puppies may become the bully themselves due to size or personality.

Instead, puppy play should be thoughtful and monitored.

A few helpful guidelines include:

  • Pair tiny puppies with other tiny puppies initially
  • Match puppies with size-appropriate playmates
  • Keep play sessions short to begin with
  • Watch for balanced, reciprocal play

Even free-ranging dogs rarely play continuously for long periods. Most natural play sessions last around 10–15 minutes before dogs pause or regulate themselves.

If play becomes too intense or one puppy is overwhelmed, it’s perfectly appropriate to step in and give everyone a break.

Healthy play should allow both dogs to opt out whenever they need to.

Exposure Doesn’t Mean “Everywhere All At Once”

Another common interpretation of socialisation is taking a puppy everywhere possible.

Busy streets, crowded parks, cafés, buses, shops, dog parks…

But this approach doesn’t take into account one very important factor:

Your puppy’s personality.

A confident, outgoing puppy might cope well with a little more novelty.

A quieter or more sensitive puppy may need more gradual introductions.

Rather than trying to expose your puppy to everything immediately, it can be helpful to prioritise experiences in layers.

For example:

Primary Socialisation

Things your puppy will likely encounter regularly in their life:

  • The school run
  • Local parks
  • Car journeys
  • Walking near traffic
  • Visiting a café

Secondary Socialisation

Situations they may encounter occasionally:

  • Visiting shops
  • Meeting new people
  • Bus or train travel
  • Outdoor seating areas

Tertiary Socialisation

General “just in case” exposures:

  • Umbrellas
  • Scooters and bikes
  • Loud household noises
  • Moving vehicles
  • Children running or playing

Many common behaviour problems later in life — such as barking at scooters, reacting to buses, or being nervous of tall people — often stem from missed or rushed exposure during puppyhood.

The Risk of Doing Too Much: Flooding

In the dog training world, overexposure has a name.

It’s called flooding.

Flooding happens when a puppy is exposed to something beyond their ability to cope with.

This pushes them over what we call their threshold.

When this happens, puppies may respond in a few ways.

Some may shut down completely, becoming very quiet or still. This can sometimes be mistaken for calm behaviour, but in reality the puppy may simply be overwhelmed.

Others may become overstimulated, showing behaviours such as:

  • Mouthing
  • Grabbing
  • Growling
  • General agitation

Neither response means the puppy is “being naughty”.

It simply means the situation was too much, too soon.

Learning to Read Your Puppy’s Body Language

One of the most valuable skills for new puppy owners is learning to observe what their puppy is communicating.

Ask yourself:

  • Are they trying to move closer to investigate?
  • Are they turning away or increasing distance?
  • Are they doing a mixture of both?

We also need to think not only about what puppies are exposed to, but how long they remain in that situation.

Some puppies cope well with a new experience for a short period, but may need frequent breaks.

Subtle signs that something required effort for your puppy might include:

  • Shaking off their body
  • Yawning
  • Lip licking
  • Turning their head away
  • Stopping to scratch

These behaviours can actually be self-regulation.

If you notice them, it’s a great time to reward your puppy and give them space to move away.

A cheerful “good shake!” and calmly increasing distance can go a long way in helping puppies process what they’ve just experienced.

Socialisation Can Happen At A Distance

Another common misconception is that puppies must be right next to the thing they are being socialised to.

In reality, socialisation can happen very effectively from a distance.

Many puppies — particularly more thoughtful or sensitive ones — are excellent observers.

They prefer to watch a situation first, gathering information before deciding whether it feels safe to approach.

This observational learning is incredibly valuable.

Sometimes the best socialisation session looks like sitting quietly on a bench while your puppy watches the world go by.

The Power of a “Chaperone” Dog

Because dogs are social learners, they often learn a great deal through mimicry.

A calm, confident adult dog can act as a wonderful teacher for a young puppy.

Watching another dog calmly walk past traffic, greet people politely, or ignore distractions can help a puppy understand that the situation is safe.

However, it’s important that the chaperone dog is:

  • Calm
  • Predictable
  • Comfortable around puppies

This is one of the reasons I often suggest allowing a first dog to fully mature before introducing a second.

A well-adjusted adult dog can become a fantastic role model.

Structured Socialisation vs The Dog Park

If you don’t have access to calm, well-mannered dogs, consider joining a structured puppy socialisation group where interactions are guided and monitored.

This helps ensure puppies learn appropriate play skills while staying safe.

In contrast, dog parks can sometimes be overwhelming environments, especially for young puppies. They often contain dogs of mixed temperaments and energy levels, which can easily lead to overstimulation or negative experiences.

Thoughtful exposure is far more beneficial than uncontrolled interactions.

What You Can Start Working On Early

Socialisation isn’t just about the outside world.

Many important foundations can begin within the first week or two of bringing your puppy home, including:

  • Short micro-absences to build independence
  • Introducing a marker cue such as “yes”
  • Teaching your puppy to settle on a magic mat
  • Beginning gentle crate training
  • Establishing good toilet training routines

These small early lessons help puppies feel safe, confident, and capable as they explore their environment.

Socialisation Is About Confidence, Not Chaos

True puppy socialisation isn’t about doing everything quickly.

It’s about helping your puppy feel safe, curious, and capable in the world around them.

That means:

  • Gradual exposure
  • Thoughtful play
  • Watching body language
  • Allowing rest and recovery

When we approach socialisation this way, we don’t just create a puppy who tolerates the world.

We help raise a dog who feels comfortable living in it.

Find my socialisation check list below (remember to take it slow) and more importantly have fun with your new pup.

….love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer and behaviourist S. X

If you found this blog post helpful you might also want to read my previous blogs in the series – Seven of the most common issues found in puppy training👇

Start here with Part 1 – Help my puppy won’t settle at night

Part 2 – The Toilet Training Timeline

Part 3- How to prevent jumping up

Part 4- Nipping & Biting – The teething timeline

Part 5- Pulling – How to get started with loose lead

Part 6- Six tips for recall in puppies

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Help! My Puppy Is Biting – Understanding the Teething Timeline

Most puppy biting consultations tend to land on my desk at exactly the same time.

Around 12 to 16 weeks.

And that timing is not a coincidence.

It’s teeth and development colliding.

By this stage, many owners feel like their once sweet, sleepy puppy has suddenly become bold, mouthy, and determined to bite everything — including hands, sleeves, ankles, and furniture.

It can feel personal.
It can feel intentional.
And it can feel like things are getting worse instead of better.

But what’s usually happening is far more predictable — and far less dramatic — than it seems.

The Teething Timeline (That Nobody Warns You About Properly)

Puppies don’t suddenly “start teething” at four months. It’s been happening in stages since birth.

Here’s a simplified timeline:

  • Incisors begin erupting at around 2–3 weeks
  • Canines follow at roughly 4 weeks
  • Premolars and molars appear between 3–6 weeks
  • The last baby molars are typically through by 6–8 weeks — often right when puppies go home

That means most puppies arrive in their new homes with a full set of baby teeth already in place.

Then comes the next phase.

Permanent teeth begin replacing baby teeth “tooth for tooth”, plus 14 additional adult molars.

By around 6–7 months of age, most dogs have their full adult set of 42 teeth.

The peak discomfort for many puppies?
Right around 12–16 weeks.

Exactly when owners start noticing “big personality changes”.

Where Owners Get Misled

Teething doesn’t happen in isolation.

It overlaps with a developmental stage where puppies become:

  • More curious
  • More confident
  • More mobile
  • More experimental

They are exploring the world with their mouths at the same time their gums feel uncomfortable and their brains are developing rapidly.

This is often when I hear words like:

  • “Dominant”
  • “Aggressive”
  • “Testing boundaries”
  • “Trying it on”

But what you are usually seeing is a combination of:

  • Physical discomfort
  • Normal exploratory behaviour
  • Increasing independence
  • Reduced sleep
  • Overstimulation

It is development — not defiance.

Understanding that early changes how you respond, and that response matters.

Why Punishment Backfires During This Phase

When biting increases, many owners instinctively increase rules.

More “no”.
More corrections.
More pressure.

But the most effective approach during this stage is usually the opposite.

Push management and redirection first. Not punishment.

Because if a puppy has free access to the entire house 24/7, you are setting both of you up to fail.

What Management Actually Means

Management isn’t giving up on training.
It’s creating an environment where training can succeed.

That means:

  • Reducing access rather than increasing rules
  • Using a pen, crate, or safe confinement area so supervision is realistic
  • Keeping the environment boring and safe
  • Making legal chew items easy to find
  • Making illegal items impossible to reach

If shoes, table legs, and sleeves are constantly available, chewing them is not misbehaviour — it’s opportunity.

A well-managed environment lowers rehearsal of unwanted behaviour and reduces frustration on both sides.

But Training Still Matters

Management alone isn’t enough.

Owners still need a clear, calm plan for what to do in the moment when biting happens.

That might include:

  • Redirecting to an appropriate chew
  • Pausing interaction briefly
  • Checking for overtiredness
  • Short, structured play sessions
  • Ensuring enough rest throughout the day

Because many “bitey” puppies are actually overtired puppies.

And overtired puppies make poor decisions.

The Reframe That Changes Everything

When we understand that 12–16 weeks is:

Teething + development + growing independence

…we stop asking:

“Why is my puppy being like this?”

And start asking:

“How can I support this stage better?”

That shift reduces blame.
It reduces panic.
And it reduces the temptation to label normal development as something more concerning.

A Final Reassurance

If your puppy feels mouthier than ever right now, you are not alone.

This stage is common.
It is predictable.
And it is temporary.

With thoughtful management, appropriate outlets, and realistic expectations, most puppies move through this period without long-term issues.

It’s not dominance.
It’s not aggression.
And it’s not a character flaw.

It’s development.

And development needs guidance — not punishment.

And if you need further help with your puppy I have another puppy class in Plymouth on March 1st click here to book 👇🐕

6 Weeks Of Puppy Class Here

If you need extra help I am available online for 1-2-1 help here 👇

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Frustration in adolescent dogs

Adolescence Isn’t Disobedience: Understanding the 7-Month-Old Spaniel Brain

I recently responded to a post about a 7-month-old Cocker Spaniel who was “pulling like a train” and they were asking for a harness that “stops pulling”. Other phrases that kept coming up were ones I hear all the time:

“He’s suddenly forgotten everything.”
“His attention span is like a gnat’s.”
“He’s pushing boundaries and meeting force with force.”

Welcome to canine adolescence.

This phase can feel like all your hard work has unravelled overnight, but what you’re seeing isn’t stubbornness, dominance, or your dog “being naughty”. It’s biology.

The Teenage Dog Brain (or: Why Your Dog Can’t Put the Brakes On)

A 7-month-old dog is roughly equivalent to a 14-year-old human teenager.

Their body is developing rapidly, hormones are surging, and crucially — their frontal cortex hasn’t caught up yet.

The frontal cortex is the part of the brain responsible for:

  • Impulse control
  • Emotional regulation
  • Decision-making
  • The ability to pause and think before acting

In dogs, this area doesn’t fully mature until around 18 months of age.

So when we expect a teenage dog to “just make better choices”, we’re asking them to use a part of the brain that quite literally isn’t finished yet.

Be the Swan 🦢 (Even When You’re Screaming Inside)

I often tell clients to be like a swan.

On the surface: calm, graceful, unbothered.
Underneath: paddling like mad, thinking “for goodness sake”, and feeling frustrated.

Feeling frustration is normal. It’s human. It’s part of our emotional repertoire.

But dogs don’t need us to win against them — they need us to be smarter than their nervous system.

Meeting force with force during adolescence often escalates behaviour, because the dog simply doesn’t have the neurological capacity to regulate themselves yet.

What Adolescent Stress Actually Looks Like

During this phase, dogs become more easily frustrated, and stress shows up in ways that often confuse owners.

You might see:

  • Scratching in the middle of play
  • Yawning when nothing seems tiring
  • Shaking off when they’re not wet
  • Avoiding things they were previously fine with
  • Lunging or barking at familiar sights
  • Sudden “out of context” behaviours

These are stress displacement behaviours — signs that the dog’s nervous system is struggling to cope.

When pressure continues, dogs may opt for space-increasing behaviours, such as:

  • Pawing at you to make you stop
  • Mouthing or grabbing clothing
  • Snapping to create distance

This isn’t aggression — it’s communication.

Redirect, Don’t Confront

Instead of challenging the behaviour head-on, I prefer redirection using cues the dog already understands well.

One of my favourites is:

“What’s this?”

It taps into curiosity and makes the dog come towards you to see what they’re missing out on.

If you can teach:

  • “Up up” → you can teach “Off”
  • “Come and see” → instead of pushing away

Always ask yourself:

What is the opposite of the behaviour I don’t want?

Examples:

  • Jumping up → a solid sit on a mat
  • Mouthing → stopping and picking up a toy
  • Recall issues → working very close for a long time to build value in staying with you

Distance is earned. Adolescents need to relearn proximity.

Puberty = Instincts Switching On

Puberty typically hits between 7–9 months, and this is when a dog’s breed-specific behaviours really start to emerge.

Under pressure or frustration, dogs revert to what they were selectively bred to do.

For example:

  • Spaniels like to hold and possess
  • Retrievers like to carry things in their mouths
  • Guardian breeds may grab and pull down

These behaviours often increase when:

  • The dog is frustrated
  • The dog doesn’t know what’s being asked
  • Training lacks clarity
  • Tasks change too quickly

Dogs don’t default to calm thinking under stress — they default to instinct.

Why Frustration Tips Over So Fast (Especially on Lead)

Frustration builds pressure in the nervous system, and pressure needs an outlet.

This is why:

  • Dogs are often more reactive on lead than off
  • Tension on the lead escalates behaviour
  • Lack of movement increases emotional overflow

Under pressure, behaviour can escalate quickly into:

  • Barking
  • Lunging
  • Snapping

Not because the dog is “bad”, but because their coping capacity has been exceeded.

A Note on Harness Battles

If getting equipment on and off has become a battle, you have two options:

1. Change the Equipment

Some dogs struggle with harnesses that go over the head.
A step-in or Velcro harness can remove that stress entirely.

2. Go Back a Step

Slow the whole process down.

  • Break it into smaller steps
  • Reinforce calm behaviour
  • Reduce the “faff”

Sometimes removing the equipment altogether for a short reset helps, because the dog has learned to predict:

“Something uncomfortable or stressful is about to happen.”

If in doubt:

  • Change the cue
  • Change the equipment
  • Start again from scratch

There is no failure in resetting — only information.

The Takeaway

Adolescence isn’t a training problem.
It’s a developmental phase.

Your dog isn’t giving you a hard time — they’re having a hard time.

With clarity, patience, and an understanding of what’s happening inside that teenage brain, this phase doesn’t have to be something you “get through”.

It can be something you guide them through — calmly, consistently, and with empathy.

And yes… sometimes while paddling furiously under the surface 🦢

If you appreciated this post feel free to check out my previous post Help My Puppy Won’t Settle At Night here👈

Before you go you might want to check out my 12 Days Of Woofmas by adding your email to my newsletter sign up page Here to get access to 12 days of canine science right into your inbox there will also be 12 videos to accompany those emails on a private section of this website as well as daily tasks to complete via email – so if you want to keep yourself busy over the Christmas period feel free to sign up now 👍

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer and behaviourist.

S x

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Help! My New Puppy Won’t Settle at Night

Part 1 Of The 7 Most Common Puppy Issues Series

A gentle, gradual guide to peaceful nights in the first few weeks home

Bringing a new puppy home is magical… and exhausting. One of the most common worries I hear from new puppy parents is:

“My puppy just won’t settle at night. Are we setting her up to never be able to sleep alone?”

Take a breath — the answer is no.
In fact, a gradual, methodical transition is the very thing that prevents separation-related problems later on.

Your puppy has just come from sleeping in a pile of warm littermates. Suddenly she’s in a new home, new smells, new routines, and without her usual nighttime company. Reassurance in these early weeks isn’t “spoiling” — it’s meeting a biological need for safety.

Let’s walk through a gentle, practical plan that helps your puppy settle confidently at night, whether you’re using a crate or a playpen.

Step One: Choose Where You Want Your Puppy to Sleep Long-Term

Before you start, decide what your end goal is. Do you want your dog to sleep:

  • In a crate beside your bed?
  • In a crate or pen downstairs?
  • In a specific room like the kitchen or living room?

There’s no wrong answer — choose the setup you can maintain long-term.

Tip: Most people find starting with the crate beside the bed much easier. You’re close enough for quick reassurance without allowing rehearsals of prolonged crying.

Option 1: Start Beside the Bed (My Recommended Option)

Begin with the crate or pen right next to the bed, within arm’s reach. Your presence helps your puppy regulate her emotions and settle back to sleep after tiny wobbles.

Week-by-week progression:

Week 1 — Right at your bedside
Your hand can reach the crate easily. Reassure with a quiet word or a gentle touch if needed.

Week 2 — End of the bed
Move the crate every 3 days or so, keeping your puppy successful and calm.

Week 3 — Outside the bedroom door → Hallway → Bottom of the stairs
Small, steady changes. No big jumps.

Week 4 — Final sleeping spot (e.g., living room or kitchen)
You may need to sleep on the sofa for a night or two depending on your puppy’s confidence. Expect to get up for toilet trips and brief reassurance — totally normal.

Option 2: Start Where the Crate Will Live (Downstairs)

If you prefer to begin downstairs, place the crate in the room you intend to use long-term — kitchen or living room usually works best.

For the first few nights, sleep on the sofa nearby.
As your puppy settles more easily, gradually increase the distance between you and the crate until you’re no longer needed in the room.

This mirrors the same progression as Option 1, just starting in a different location.

Important Caveats (The Things People Forget!)

1. Scoop-and-go is absolutely fine

In the early days, if your puppy wakes and you need to take her out now, pick her up and go quickly to avoid accidents. You’re not making a habit that will last forever — you’re preventing one.

2. The crate or pen must be big enough

Your puppy needs two zones:

  • A cosy sleep area
  • An area they could move to if they needed to toilet

Puppies genuinely don’t want to soil where they sleep. If the space is too small, crying or accidents increase.

3. Set your puppy up for sleep success

Before bedtime, make sure she has:

  • Been out to toilet
  • Played a short game (nothing too exciting!)
  • Had her final meal or snack

A tired belly and brain settle best.

4. Phase out puppy pads sooner rather than later

Pads often encourage puppies to toilet wherever they smell previous pee spots.
If you use them temporarily, clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove ammonia scents — this prevents “Oh, I peed here before!” repeat performances.

Reassurance Is Not a Bad Habit — It’s Attachment Building

Your puppy is not manipulating you. She’s not being “naughty.”
She’s simply calling out for the family she knows is somewhere in the house.

Call-and-response crying is normal in the first weeks.

What you’re watching for is intensity:

  • A few minutes of fussing? Normal.
  • More than 20 minutes with rising distress? She needs help.

After a toilet check, offer calm reassurance — a hand on the crate, sitting nearby for a moment, a quiet voice. Once she settles, return to bed.

This is how puppies learn:
“I’m safe. My human comes when I need them. I can go back to sleep.”

That confidence becomes the foundation for healthy independence later.

Want Help With Crate Training?

The full gradual crate-training guide is available in my Black Friday Weekend Webinar Bundle which I’ve extended until midnight tonight for those who want a step by step guide on not only crate training all things home alone training as well as three of my other lost popular webinar topics :

Separation Anxiety Survival Guide

Let’s Learn Loose Lead (prevent pulling)

Restart Recall & Creating A FOMO Recall

Tiny Dog Behaviour – Debunking The Little Dog Syndrome Myth

Plus step by step guides for both crate training and creating an off switch by training a Settle In Real Life – if this sounds right up your street then grab it at its current price of £35 instead of my normal bundle deal of £70 Book the last minute webinar bundle here 👈


If you need support applying the steps with your puppy , just reach out — that’s what I’m here for.

And if you appreciated this post you might want to check out my previous blog post Don’t rush your rescue dog! Which applies to rehoming young dogs also👍

Also be sure to check out the rest of my 7 MOST COMMONNISSUES IN OUPOIES SERIES here 👉Part 2 – Understanding The Toilet Training Timeline

Or Part 3 – Jumping Up & How To Prevent It

And to be the first to read my newest blog posts and get access to my latest news and offers be sure to sign up to my Newsletter Sign Up Here👍

Or even better follow me on Pinterest Here

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer- S x

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Little Dog Syndrome- What Small Breeds Really Need

Small dogs need big personalities for you to “listen” to them.

If you’ve ever heard the phrase “little dog syndrome”, you might picture a tiny dog with big attitude—yapping, bossing other dogs around, maybe even snappy or reactive. It’s a phrase many people toss around with a wink. But as with many catchy sayings, the reality is far more nuanced than it seems.

What the phrase implies

The term suggests that small-breed dogs are inherently more problematic: more yappy, more aggressive, more spoiled. It frames size as the root cause of behaviour problems. But the truth: size alone doesn’t determine behaviour. What does matter is why behaviour issues arise — and how we support small dogs (and their owners) differently.

What the science reveals

  • Research shows that smaller dogs do have higher odds of owner-reported fearfulness and aggression than larger dogs — but size is just one of many factors. For example, one large-scale study found that smaller body size correlated with higher risk of fear and aggression, but the authors emphasised that this is a broad, population-level trend, not a destiny for any individual dog.
  • Another key piece: early life and maternal care matter a lot. Puppies whose dams were less stressed, who gave more consistent licking/nursing and contact, develop into calmer, more resilient adults.
  • Behaviour issues in small dogs are frequently driven by pain or medical issues (for example dental disease, joint problems, airway or spine issues) rather than “just being a small dog with attitude.” When pain is relieved, behaviour often improves.
  • Nutrition and training style matter too: diet can support behaviour improvement (though it isn’t a silver bullet) and training methods that rely on rewards, respect and clear communication outperform punitive methods — especially for smaller dogs.

So what’s really at play?

Here are the bigger drivers behind what gets labelled “small dog syndrome”:

  • Higher vigilance: Many small breeds were bred to alert or watch (rather than herd or guard). That means a lower threshold to respond to stimuli (doorbell, stranger, passer-by).
  • Owner handling biases: Small dogs are easier to pick up, more likely to be carried, less likely to be handled like larger dogs (walked as much, trained as much). This can reduce their confidence and increase fear.
  • Overlooking health issues: Because they’re small, pain or discomfort in the joints, spine, teeth or airway may be overlooked — and an irritable, anxious dog often looks like a behaviour problem.
  • Inadequate training/enrichment: Smaller dogs still need outlets for their breed-instincts, socialisation, movement and mental challenges — these get missed if we think “small = easy.”
  • Environment and management: Running into strangers, dogs or stimuli at high speed without a plan creates stress; small dogs are more vulnerable to feeling “trapped” (less body mass, fewer escape options) so reading early signals matters.

What you can do to advocate for your small dog

1. Read the body language early

Look for the subtle-before-the-problem: lip licks, head turn, freezing, shifting weight, crouching or making the body smaller. These aren’t “cute” — they’re stress signals. Intervene early: give space, create a barrier (your body, a bench), redirect to a positive behaviour (scatter a few treats, hand-target, escort to safe zone).

2. Check health/pain before punishing behaviour

Especially in small breeds, do a “vet audit” when you see a new or changed behaviour: dental examination (crowded jaws are common); joint check (patella, spine/neck, hips); airway/trachea or breathing issues; signs of neuropathic pain (especially in certain breeds). Pain-driven behaviour is teachable — but only after treating the cause.

3. Tailor training to small-dog size & needs

  • Use a well-fitted Y-front or front-clip harness instead of a tight collar (especially for toy or brachycephalic breeds)
  • Teach “station” (mat on the floor or low bench) so your small dog has a safe base
  • Practice “hand-target,” “middle” (dog between your legs), “scatter-sniff” breaks during walks
  • Use short sessions frequently (2–3 mins several times a day) to suit small body/attention spans
  • Build “consent handling” (dog comes to you for grooming/touch rather than you always picking it up) to build resilience and trust

4. Provide enrichment & mental outlets

Small breed owners often think “less space = less need.” But with little dogs especially, enrichment helps reduce reactivity and fear: puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, short high-value walks, nosework, training games, “Look at that” with new people/dogs at distance.

5. Change the narrative: dismissing “small dog = easy”

Educate your network: small dogs can do a lot — we just need to support them right. They deserve the same structured socialisation, and predictable training, and patience. The phrase “small dog syndrome” stops being an excuse and becomes a stepping-stone to doing better.

6. Create safe walks & encounters

Because small dogs are physically closer to obstacles, less body-mass to buffer stress, teach your clients / owners to anticipate:

  • Use visual scanning: what’s ahead? Could another dog/child move towards us quickly?
  • If yes: U-turn early or cross the road, give space.
  • If in doubt keep moving – lead reactivity is often an attempt to create space if we take on the role of manager we can always help the dog out and keep moving- knowing your dogs initial safe distance is important.
  • Practice a “go-to” cue like “find it” then drop a handful of treats behind a parked car or something else in the environment to help to block the oncoming trigger just until the moment has passed.
  • Use a “safe space” or magic mat at dog-friendly cafés or venues so your dog can climb up, feel elevated and choose to stay. Being sure that everyone understands to “ignore” your dog where needed.

Final word

Your little dog isn’t “just small.” It’s a fully capable, complex individual with specific needs. Yes—size adds a few extra risk parameters (fear threshold, vulnerability to pain, owner biases) but it never dictates the future. By understanding the science (maternal care, early life, genetics, health, training), reading the signals early, and advocating smartly, you turn “small dog syndrome” from a myth into an opportunity: a chance to say “small dogs count too—and actually, they hold the key to some of the best, most fun, most rewarding dog-human partnerships.”

Let’s shift the conversation: small dogs deserve big support.

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post on 👇

How To Tackle Jumping Up

BOOK ZOOM WEBINARS HERE

… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S 

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶
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Jumping Up -Why It Happens and How To Tackle A Common Issue

If your once well-behaved puppy suddenly seems to forget everything they’ve learned, you’re not alone. The adolescent phase — usually between 6 to 18 months — can bring a wave of new challenges as your dog’s brain and body mature. Think of it as the teenage phase of their development: hormones, distractions, and big feelings all at once!

One of the most common issues owners face during this stage is jumping up — especially around people. The good news? With management, consistency, and a well-practised alternative behaviour, your dog can absolutely learn better ways to greet.

Why Does It Happen?

Jumping up is natural for dogs. They do it to get attention, greet face-to-face, or release excitement. During adolescence, impulse control dips while energy and social motivation soar — not the best combo! Add in the fact that new people, places, and smells are super stimulating, and it’s easy to see why polite manners can vanish overnight.

Step 1: Manage Before You Train

Use management to prevent unwanted rehearsals of the behaviour. Keep greetings calm and controlled — use a lead or long line, create space, and avoid letting the dog practise jumping.
This isn’t forever! It’s just until your teen pup is emotionally mature enough to handle more stimulation without losing focus.

Step 2: Train an Alternative Behaviour

Start at a distance where your dog can succeed. Practice a calm, incompatible behaviour such as:

  • An automatic sit
  • A “go to mat” or “place” cue
  • A relaxed settle on a bed

Reinforce these generously so they feel just as rewarding as saying hello by jumping.

Step 3: Keep Rewards Low

Always deliver rewards on the floor. This prevents your dog from anticipating treats coming from above — which can encourage more jumping. It is inevitable if everything fun happens at waist height then the dog is much more likely to want to get to the exciting thing more quickly by jumping up as excitement builds so get into the habit of asking your dog to “Find It” on the floor initially.

Step 4: Repetition Builds Reliability

Consistency is everything. It takes around 3–4 weeks for old habits to fade and new ones to stick.
And remember: one excitable jump can set you back a few practice sessions — so think long-term, not instant results.

A great rule of thumb: train 100 reps for the time you’ll need that 101st in real life. Build the muscle memory before you need it.

Step 5: Check the Motivation

Ask yourself:

  • Is my dog overstimulated by people or the environment?
  • Do they know how to switch off?

Try visiting public places to practise simply watching and settling. Start with 5–10 minutes at a distance, then gradually work closer as your dog learns to stay calm.

Final Thoughts

A well-timed “sit” or “what’s this?” is always more effective than shouting “no.” When dogs understand what’s expected, they feel secure — and calm dogs make better choices.

Adolescence can be challenging, but it’s also an opportunity to deepen your bond through patience, practice, and clear communication.

If you’d like to learn more about why adolescent dogs behave this way and how to support them through it, join my Teen Dog Behaviour Webinar on Wednesday nights — dates for the next rotation of webinar topics can be found below👇 🐾

And if you found this blog helpful you might also like my previous blog post in the Seven Most Common Issues In Puppy Training 👇

Part 4- Nipping & Biting – the teething timeline

Part 5- Pulling – Getting started with loose lead

BOOK ZOOM WEBINARS HERE

… love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer – S

If you want to work with me 1-2-1 please check out my Training & Behaviour Questionnaire Link To Get Started HERE 🐶

Sllandricombe4 Comments