How Long Is Too Long? Understanding Your Dog’s Alone Time Needs

A Dog Owner’s Guide to Balancing Alone Time and Welfare

Let’s talk about something we’ve all probably mused over at one time or another as a dog guardian: how long can you really leave your dog home alone?

Technically, the Animal Welfare Act 2006 suggests that after 4 hours assuming that your dog has also just partaken in some form of enforced crating (think overnight in a crate for an average of 8 hours), it would be time to consider your dog’s welfare. Dogs are social creatures, after all, and leaving them for long stretches without interaction isn’t ideal.

In fact, the PDSA is pushing for an additional welfare guideline to consider dogs’ rights to companionship beyond that 4-hour mark. The science is simple: dogs thrive on interaction, and too much alone time can lead to boredom, anxiety, and even stress-related behaviors.

But how long is too long?

A tan faced beagle is lying down on a grey couch

Context Is Key: A Quick Reality Check

For a little perspective, animals in transit on their way to slaughter (yes, grim but relevant) can’t travel for more than 8 hours without a break for food, water, and in some cases, a quick hose down. So if even livestock in transit get regulated breaks, it makes sense to extend similar consideration to our household pets too doesn’t it?

While some dogs—like seniors, puppies, or those with medical conditions—may need more tailored routines, the general rule of thumb is to limit alone time to 4-6 hours, with 8 hours being the absolute maximum in most cases.


What Can You Do?

Here’s where your creativity and resourcefulness come into play. It’s all about breaking up your dog’s day:

  • Enlist Help: Think family, neighbours, friends, or even a professional dog walker.
  • Pop-In Visits: A quick visit to let them out, give them some love, and maybe toss a frisbee can make all the difference.
  • Gradual Training: If your dog isn’t used to being alone, work up to it gradually with the help of a specialist dog trainer/ behaviourist.

Gradual Alone-Time Training: Step-by-Step

If you’re planning on leaving your dog alone while you’re at work, it’s worth setting them up for success:

  1. Start Small: Begin with short periods out of the house, like 2 hours or even less if your dog has ZERO practice (thirty seconds is all I’m asking to begin with).
  2. Use a Camera: Set up a pet cam and see what your dog does when you’re gone. (Spoiler: the camera doesn’t lie.)
  3. Extend Slowly: Once your dog is comfortable, try 3 hours, then 4. Adjust based on what you observe. Even 1 minute / 2 minutes in micro bursts might be where you start.

It’s worth noting that adjusting to a new routine can take time—sometimes up to 6 weeks. So please be patient!

A shirt faces pug lies down in front of a glass door looking out

Setting Your Dog Up for Success

Here’s a handy checklist to help your dog settle into their alone time:

  1. Get Them Moving: Make sure your dog gets a good walk before you leave, but avoid high-energy activities like frisbee or fetch, which can leave them tired but overstimulated.
    • Instead, try scent-based activities like scatter feeding or search games to help them decompress on the way home.
  2. Feed Them: A well-fed dog is much more likely to nap afterwards. I often do this AFTER their walk due to issues regarding bloat (I have two deep chested dogs).
  3. Provide a Cozy Space: Create a comfortable “hotel spot” where they can snooze undisturbed whilst you are out. The more appealing and luxury the better.
  4. Offer Enrichment: Puzzle toys, Kongs, or chew toys can keep them entertained—but introduce these while you’re still home so they don’t associate them with you leaving. Give yourself plenty of time to leave. I use the rule that enrichment for the day goes down 30 minutes before I leave.
  5. Keep the Goodbye Drama-Free: No long farewells. Just calmly set them up and go. By planning these morning routines well we can set our dogs up well.
  6. Lastly – make sure you are actually out of sight and out of their scent range because dogs will settle sooner if they can smell you upstairs or out on the doorstep for example. We need to make it as true to life as possible.

A large Black and Tan shepherd mix breed lies down on the decking with his mouth open whilst wearing a black harness on

The Bottom Line

Your dog doesn’t need 24/7 supervision, but they do deserve thoughtful planning to ensure their welfare. With a mix of routine, training, and enrichment, you can strike a balance that keeps your dog happy and healthy—while giving you peace of mind.

So, whether it’s calling on a neighbour, investing in a pet camera, or adjusting your dog’s routine, small changes can make a big difference and remeber it’s never too late to start home alone training.

Love from your friendly neighbourhood dog trainer Sara.

If you enjoyed this post feel free to check out my previous Home Alone Posts Here 👉 How to start home alone training & Five myths about separation anxiety

If you want to work with me then you can email me here Contact Sara at About Town Pets as I now offer online 1-2-1 dog training in person in an 8 miles radius of Plymouth Uk or online for the rest of the UK USA Canada Europe New Zealand and Australia specialising in the following topics;

Separation Related Distress

Lead Reactivity

Adolescent Dogs (6-18 months old)

Tiny Dog Behaviour (dogs under 7kgs)

City Dogs (adapting training for urban environments)

Or BOOK NOW 👉Home Alone Heroes Package

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My Number One Tip For Any Training Scenario…

Be Prepared

If this conjures up thoughts of a very popular song from the original Lion King movie – then so be it 😅

It doesn’t matter if you’re training puppies to stop mouthing or setting up controlled scenarios to help practice something (ie: barking at the door or keeping calm for reactive dogs) if your not prepared, your dog is less likely to succeed at every given opportunity.

Husky mixed breed looks up at handler in the sit position – good training requires practice

I NEVER leave the house without at least some treats in my pockets – even when I’m not training, I am prepared to train if the need should arise. My dogs, for example have been learning to settle at cafes at least twice a week, as well as learning to settle in our new campervan. At 5 and 10 years old they still need reminders of what’s expected and practicing regularly is the best way to do this. They may need help in the form of food reward to keep them motivated and keeping their attentions , especially if said cafe gets quite loud and full of people – our dogs can do this well usually, because they’ve practiced a lot previously, but I can’t assume they will be perfect on the day, so I bring things I know will help them concentrate and mitigate against distractions. multiple greetings from people , constant movement of people backward and forward , food and drink coming and going – it’s a lot but that’s why we are here right? 😅-

These things used to be an issue for Ollie (settling with distractions) he thought all food was for him and would bark until someone gave him something, he has since practiced A LOT and knows that EVENTUALLY he gets something if he waits it out – the only time he might bark is if he needs to go out for a wee so I don’t really want to extinguish ALL barking ALL OF THE TIME, it is sometimes a good thing but it would be dog specific 👍

A Jack Russell Lies Down on a mat holding its own lead – practicing duration of a hold is what makes training this behaviour successful

I digress….. that happens here…… now imagine that I didn’t take any treats or poo bags and didn’t bring a mat for my lurcher to chill out on (he has bad arthritis these days) the visits would not be as relaxed or as well planned as they could be. Scout would constantly figet because he was uncomfortable -leading to him excessively using his arthritic knee more than he should and Ollie would get very frustrated with me very quickly because after waiting a long time for his reward (we’ve worked on duration and delayed rewards) he would stop offering this waiting behaviour and most likely start his frustrated barking in public again – it’s not really worth the hassle and all of this can be avoided by simply was being a little bit prepared with a sensible lead some treats in my pocket and piece of vet bed for Scout – it is the difference between a chilled out lunch on a Sunday afternoon and having to rush and get a quick takeaway coffee and a walk in the rain because they won’t settle 😅😅

By simply being more prepared you are both setting yourselves up for success. Success that you can train your dog efficiently (hands free with a Halti lead around your waist means your hands are free to deposit a treat or you reward at the exact right time – because timing is everything😉) or having treats or a toy stashed systematically at points (I’d advise you out these out of reach from your dog 😅) so that when you come through the door you are ready with a toy for your frustrated greeters or if you want to practice alone time you prep pre-made toys and frozen kong enrichment toys, for example, all ready to just take out of the fridge when you need to leave and place in a crate or safe space for your pup or dog.

Another example from my dogs perspective is that just before I leave everyday for work , to settle them down BEFORE I leave I make sure they have a small kong with peanut butter or a Whimzees chew toy so that the chewing licking and sniffing actions of using these toys is medicine of a calm and more chilled out dog before I leave – we do it so often that they waiting just after I put on my shoes and put on my walking belt. Now if I didn’t prep that they wouldn’t be sufficiently calm before I left the house . I’ve don’t this a lot too – if I rush out of the door because I’ve missed the post man or I have to pop out to the car – this unprepared rush is different and unrehearsed and the dogs will definitely bark and be up at the window because of it BUT if I RESET them and I give them the chews and toy 10 minutes later I put on my shoes and bag and leave calmly they won’t bark and won’t jump up at the window because we are rehearsing the calm exit strategy that they have done lots of times before and can settle a lot quicker 😅

A Cavapoo looks up at their handler for a reward after taking a picture

So it sounds likes a stupidly simple piece of advice but if you want to succeed with your dogs training goals it’s the most important one of all. If you’re prepared you’re more likely to train than if you were unprepared and that means more practice and more repetitions of any desirable behaviours and that’s what successful dog training is all about.

Sara @ About Town Pets 🐶

Ps : if you liked this article you may also like my previous blog post With Tips & Advice For Training Tennage Dogs – Here 🐕

Or you may also want to check out my most popular blog article about 8 Enrichment Ideas For Your Dog 🥎

Help I Think My Dog Is Resource Guarding

👉Does your dog show signs of guarding sometimes known as Resource Guarding (anything of high value clothes toys food sofa people or space)- it could just be play OR it could be a slippery slope into defensive growling and eventually a bite (the fear of having its coveted thing taken away at all costs)

👉So here’s my “QUICK ADVICE” for someone who’s worried enough to ask for help but hasn’t been assessed by a dog behaviourist yet – Disclaimer – your scenario might not be as bad as you think but always er on the side of caution especially where growling & biting & CHILDREN are concerned

This is my online response so I’m trying to generalise massively for someone I don’t know but can make SOME assumptions based upon my own experience …….here goes👇👇(this was for a 8 month old goldendoodle pup)

⭐️Potential Resource Guarding⭐️

🛑First port of call is to manage your dogs triggers – ie: make every attempt to prevent him from practicing the unwanted behaviour so if you know he grabs socks and books and anything that rolls on the floor (my dog guarded a piece of pasta once 😅) you need to make the things inaccessible – I don’t have anything loose downstairs and those things are upstairs behind a baby gate

🛑You need to set your puppy up to not fail as this breed of dog is highly sensitive to guarding behaviour as they enjoy having things in their mouth (golden retrievers actually have a high incendence of guarding behaviour issues) and it’s OUR response to the guarding that starts to create the problem
If we quickly go to grab and manhandle a puppy with something in its mouth it will probably do one of two things:

1- Get defensive because he always gets manhandled or scolded therefore growling and running away will become the default- if this happens too much and pressure is constantly put on the pup and growls are not listened too it will become a bite and then habitually after many repetitions biting = normal for this dog

2- Or it becomes a game of “keep away” depending on the behaviour presented – to your dog it’s much more fun to get so and so to chase them around so he’s much more likely to steal that thing again next time because ANY attention is good attention for puppies sometimes

Tan coloured Staffordshire bull terrier plays tug

🛑So after management of the environment start “Yes” training – think of this as the first building block to create a new behaviour chain for your dog -do something completely different in a different room and if your dog knows “What’s This” you are already onto a winner too.


💚What you are trying to do is create distance between yourself and the guarded item – it’s the close proximity that’s is causing true resource guarding – there will be a distance at which you see the body language of your dog go stiff and growling starts – this is your boundary when you see it move away quickly to diffuse the situation- keep your body language light and airy even if you don’t feel it & reassure them by actually following through each time and moving away.

👉Say puppy “ What’s this” and go into another room and start putting HIGH value treats on the floor or scatter feed in the garden and say “Yes” every time they “find” a treat but make sure “What’s this” and following you into the other room is ALWAYS followed by this high value game to begin with as your pup is learning something very difficult (undoing the previous learned behaviours) whilst in the other room a secondary person can retrieve the guarded item and once it’s picked up have a puppy party so that coming to you = treats on the floor and eventually a game of tug for example – you can start to train a solid – DROP once you’ve established this first thing (getting two of the same high value things like two squeaky balls for example) and timing your “Yes” = treat the moment the first item leaves their mouth – This is Step 2 in your new behaviour chain.

👉Step 3 is training a solid “Drop”- To encourage the drop don’t put your hand in their mouth or grab (this triggers resource guarders) WAIT for the moment THEY drop and mark “Yes” and treat after
You can make a massive fuss of the second item as puppies get FOMO and will drop to play with whatever you have – keep it up until the DROP (you don’t even need to say drop to begin with just pairing the word “YES” with a treat becomes the predictor.

👉Yes Training is basically clicker training with your voice – a consistent word in the place where you would “Click” this is what I mean by start “Yes” training- I mention how to do this in the link below to my previous blog post👇

My Blog Post Mentions Yes Training Here

‼️Notes: On Food Bowl Guarding ‼️

🔴If you are finding that your dog has begun guarding snarling showing stiff body language and eating faster in the presence of other people or your other pets – PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT to force your dog to give you their bowl mid meal (I know SOME uneducated dog trainers on the internet will tell you that you NEED to do this) but you DONT need to do this AT ALL – it’s usually BECAUSE there is this forced bowl retrieval mid meal that resource guarding has started. to occur.

🔴What your dog actually needs is to feel SAFE & SECURE so he doesn’t have to resort to getting tense and fearful every time someone comes close so in the first instance 👉 create a separate place where only the dog is allowed to eat (this could be behind a baby gate or in a separate room and do not bother your dog until they have finished – just this for several days to give your dog more confidence – then do the steps previously mentioned above to create a willing response to coming away from the food bowl naturally.

Brown & Tan Kelpie chews a soft toy

👉Then you can get a second person to pick up the bowl whilst your dog is being rewarded for an alternative thing in a separate room

👉This step might be easier said than done as I had a very smart spaniel who would only come away from the bowl for a VERY HIGH reward (I used chorizo and also I found he was only doing this behaviour INSIDE the house in confined spaces) so I found it useful to train an “outside” straight after eating to encourage a game outside in the garden to create natural distance from the bowl with a game of catch ALWAYS after his meal (nothing to strenuous I didn’t want him getting bloat) but he loved catching or “counting kibbles” or “finding chorizo” in the garden – these were all little tricks I could use if I ever failed at previous management steps and he got a tea towel for example – I could get him to at least come outside and swap for a game of ball instead of the object or “Swap” for the “catching kibble” 😅

❤️All of these things then become your toolkit for dealing with and managing a resource guarder humanely and without fear of escalation whilst you wait for behaviourist to assess the severity of your dogs guarding behaviour

👍My dog lived a happy 7 years in a home with three other dogs as quite a severe food & toy guarder because we managed him well helped him become more confident with his choices by doing fun confidence building training games. By having these little training protocols up our sleeves whenever the proverbial s**t got real made us much less nervous about managing him & made us realise it was our fault for not managing him properly or it was us who needed to dial down our response to the “stealing or guarding behaviour” as it’s was this overreaction that was fuelling the “ANY attention is good attention aspect of his behaviour. You learn quickly when you have a dog steal your mobile phone or the remote because you left it unattended on the sofa🙈🙈)

I hope this article helps someone with pointers and tips on how to be a more confident owner of a dog with resource guarding behaviour- because this is just a small aspect of their personality the other 75 percent is a loving happy active smart fun dog who just needs to be understood to thrive ❤️🐕❤️🐕

For an in depth look at the issues and training protocol I recommend this book 📕

Sara @ About Town Pet Care🐶

Ps – if this has helped you and you would like further help please contact me here👇